Greetings from Middle Tennessee

BDS TRX

TRX Junkie
Joined
Aug 22, 2021
Messages
654
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Location
Middle Tennessee
Current Ride
2022 RAM TRX Lvl 2
Current Ride #2
2013 Harley Davidson Road Glide / 2015 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
Hello all, name's Brian:

Current proud owner of a superbly maintained, meticulously cared-for 500+ hp Supercharged 2012 Challenger R/T+

RT_Mod List.jpg


Bought it brand new from California Bay Area 39k miles ago in 2012. I just moved to Tennessee this past December and well, it's not the most practical vehicle to have here in this wet weather!! ( It never saw rainy streets in California). So with that said, I thought about trading it in for a 4x4 RAM1500 of some kind. Problem is, that car generates HUGE smiles every time I climb out of it - and I just can't lose that!! Sooo . . .

. . . I decided to combine that performance as well as the desired 4x4 in a single vehicle and am actively looking to purchase my Granite Crystal TRX!!

Thought I'd create an account here and get some solid information from everyone here on which is the best way to go about this...

Thanks for readin'... ✌️
 
Hello all, name's Brian:

Current proud owner of a superbly maintained, meticulously cared-for 500+ hp Supercharged 2012 Challenger R/T+

View attachment 19481

Bought it brand new from California Bay Area 39k miles ago in 2012. I just moved to Tennessee this past December and well, it's not the most practical vehicle to have here in this wet weather!! ( It never saw rainy streets in California). So with that said, I thought about trading it in for a 4x4 RAM1500 of some kind. Problem is, that car generates HUGE smiles every time I climb out of it - and I just can't lose that!! Sooo . . .

. . . I decided to combine that performance as well as the desired 4x4 in a single vehicle and am actively looking to purchase my Granite Crystal TRX!!

Thought I'd create an account here and get some solid information from everyone here on which is the best way to go about this...

Thanks for readin'... ✌️
I just purchased one in KY last week for MSRP. You may be able to get one 500-1000 under, but it’s gonna be a headache fighting with them. That’s about as good as you’re gonna get unless you’re willing to wait several months, to build one. Most dealerships in larger cities are marking them up 5-20K above MSRP.

..I built one online, then used the search to find one within 200 miles. When you do find one, call immediately cause they go quick. The first 5 places I called had just sold a day or two before and hadn’t updated their online inventory. They’ll ask for a non-refundable deposit to hold most likely. I refused to do it and the GM backed down and said if you can get financed today I’ll hold it. Do not use their financing. Credit unions have much lower rates. Before I sent them the check, I demanded they deliver it to me that day (81 miles) no extra charge. They were happy to. Pretty easy process considering, and happened all in one day.
 
I just purchased one in KY last week for MSRP. You may be able to get one 500-1000 under, but it’s gonna be a headache fighting with them. That’s about as good as you’re gonna get unless you’re willing to wait several months, to build one. Most dealerships in larger cities are marking them up 5-20K above MSRP.

Yeah, my wrinkle is that I'm trying to use my Challenger as trade in. It's WELL above kbb/excellent value! I have all the receipts of every penny I've spent on it, lots of original Mopar parts ( bright pedal kit, hood pins, Go Wing, etc.) . . . and I'm not trying to add mileage to it just to "show" it to the dealer ( which, puts me in a weakened position to deal, as I'm inclined to accept whatever he offers so I don't add miles).

Do I go '21 or '22? I have the .pdf of the build I want - Granite Crystal, TRX Lvl 2, 19 speaker Premium Stereo, and side vinyl. The rest is give-or-take. So about an 86k build. with a 40k-ish trade in.

. . . makes it hard to "jump" on one.
 
21 and 22’s are exactly the same, no changes I’m aware of. Others will chime in shortly to correct me if I’m wrong.

Not sure on how to handle the Challenger dilemma other than KEEP it and have both!
 
21 and 22’s are exactly the same, no changes I’m aware of. Others will chime in shortly to correct me if I’m wrong.

Not sure on how to handle the Challenger dilemma other than KEEP it and have both!
The uconnect 5 system is going to be a huge upgrade in the '22s including nightly updates for tom tom navigation. The user interface will be drastically improved. Also, it will have wireless carplay and android as well as alexa fully implemented. The new system will reportedly have a processor that is 4x the speed of the current uconnect. It was a main reason why I chose to wait for the '22.
 
Yeah, my wrinkle is that I'm trying to use my Challenger as trade in. It's WELL above kbb/excellent value! I have all the receipts of every penny I've spent on it, lots of original Mopar parts ( bright pedal kit, hood pins, Go Wing, etc.) . . . and I'm not trying to add mileage to it just to "show" it to the dealer ( which, puts me in a weakened position to deal, as I'm inclined to accept whatever he offers so I don't add miles).

Do I go '21 or '22? I have the .pdf of the build I want - Granite Crystal, TRX Lvl 2, 19 speaker Premium Stereo, and side vinyl. The rest is give-or-take. So about an 86k build. with a 40k-ish trade in.

. . . makes it hard to "jump" on one.
I would put a no deposit order with Chapman at 4% below invoice. You'd save close to 9k off MSRP on that spec.


Then once it gets close to delivery time, probably better off private selling the Challenger. You'd probably get a lot more then trade since its modded and well taken care of. Dealer typically don't give top dollar for modifications.
 
I would put a no deposit order with Chapman at 4% below invoice. You'd save close to 9k off MSRP on that spec.


Then once it gets close to delivery time, probably better off private selling the Challenger. You'd probably get a lot more then trade since its modded and well taken care of. Dealer typically don't give top dollar for modifications.

I was definitely watching that thread. . . but, well, quite frankly, I got lost at "hitting D status".... so didn't know what to make of it all.

. . . aside from talking Greek, I already called yesterday before I became a member and left a voicemail at the number given in the first post. No reply yet. But it's Sunday, and besides, it gives me more time to think of questions besides what the heck does "D status" even mean . . . :ROFLMAO:

Can't pass up on a 4% UNDER dealer invoice price!!!
Thanks for the reply.
 
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I was definitely watching that thread. . . but, well, quite frankly, I got lost at "hitting D status".... so didn't know what to make of it all.

. . . aside from talking Greek, I already called yesterday before I became a member and left a voicemail at the number given in the first post. No reply yet. But it's Sunday, and besides, it gives me more time to think of questions besides what the heck does "D status" even mean . . . :ROFLMAO:

Can't pass up on a 4% UNDER dealer invoice price!!!
Thanks for the reply.
So Ram has a bunch of codes for the ordering process. Puling this off another site to break the codes down:

B - Your order exists but isn't fully confirmed yet
C - Your order is "subfirm"
D - Firm order. Your order now has a name instead of a number: You get a Vin
D1 - The date is set for your truck to be built.
E - Frame.
F - Paint.
G - Trim.
I - Inspection.

Basically D status is a good place to be as 2022 hasn't started production. Plant knows of the order and knows to sequence parts for your build. Once they have all the parts and are ready to build, they assign a date and move to D1 status. The rest of the codes are part of Rams ordering process and indicate where in the build process your order is. There are more codes then what I listed above but those are the main ones.
 
There a couple more status codes you should know about.
  • WTF status (which is a sub-status of D) - meaning you’ve been in D status for months but there’s no movement on your order.
  • RC status - means you’re in D status and Ram Chat says everything is fine (but it’s not).
  • AWOL status - your truck has a Build Sheet but no Window Sticker. Might be weeks or months before you know where it is.
 
There a couple more status codes you should know about.
  • WTF status (which is a sub-status of D) - meaning you’ve been in D status for months but there’s no movement on your order.
  • RC status - means you’re in D status and Ram Chat says everything is fine (but it’s not).
  • AWOL status - your truck has a Build Sheet but no Window Sticker. Might be weeks or months before you know where it is.
I mean if we are counting the special status codes there are 2 more crucial ones:

FU - The status your truck will always be in when you ask Ram for an update
LIT - Lost in transit, where they lose your truck somewhere between the factory and the dealer
Oops - Marked delivered but it didn't turn on at the rail yard so we just left it there hoping no one would notice

I know I said 2 and gave 3 reasons....I can't count. But apparently neither could this guy:

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Hope you don’t live in the part of Tennessee that had the flooding this weekend
 
Hope you don’t live in the part of Tennessee that had the flooding this weekend
It’s rough out there in Waverly, TN, one county over from my hometown. 17” of rain in 24hr.
 

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