Beadlock Hardware

[PhoenixTRX]

Love the Hutchinson wheels (but only see larger market Tacoma/Jeep offerings and RAM HD). Wonder what the comparative weight would be if they could do a TRX/Rebel offering? I will send them an email.

Wearing a badge for years, I too would 'geek' out on modified vehicles and worked during the 'fake HID' bulb era. Ironically I worked a company on my days off making true HID ($$ at the time) retrofit kits using H4 bulb reflectors/etc. Technically my GTi was illegal...but our Motors got to note the difference (warm up period/white light vs. 'blue-ish' from the crappy bulbs), etc. We also made a retrofit for the UNITY spotlight that was spectacular and sold in small numbers ($500+ buy-in but the tangible improvement in the late 90's was surreal!).

Tripping into this thread - just texted a retired AIU/Accident Investigation Unit Sgt. who now travels nationally training departments and sometimes involved in high profile investigations. He can't remember any accidents were a true Beadlock wheel failure/involvement was cited as the causation. I too default to 'Liability' when using some aftermarket parts, yet can't find any noteworthy lawsuits/fatal accidents to justify this concern....

Also ran true Method beadlocks on our street (legalized) RZR for years, only two people have relayed during traffic stops mention... but it was for their non DOT tires! IMO - the vast majority of my LEO peers know very little about aftermarket/modified vehicles short of some approved POST training course, few enthusiasts among them. Similar to Police Motors that never rode a MC before their training academy.

Curious whether a 'true' beadlock set-up would create any concerns on the opposite end of the use spectrum... 90-118mph operation? <- I like to drive briskly here in the SW!

 

[IB TRX]

Bolts the rings come with look and work fine. View attachment 55872

Was curious when people are powdercoating the actual beadlock ring if they are masking off the backside or powder coating both sides.

Talking to a powder coater and he is asking me what I want to do....

 

[JPV96]

Was curious when people are powdercoating the actual beadlock ring if they are masking off the backside or powder coating both sides.

Talking to a powder coater and he is asking me what I want to do....

I gave my powder coater the rim and the ring separate and make them spray every spot possible. It wont hurt. I think they hung the rings by 1 of the bolt holes. If it leaves a tiny little mark from this hanger the bolt will for sure cover it.

They did put a circle sticker over each threaded hole in my rim since the ring will cover and this way the powder coat does not affect the thread.

They also put tape over the back of the rim that touches the caliper.

 

[Informal]

Was curious when people are powdercoating the actual beadlock ring if they are masking off the backside or powder coating both sides.

Talking to a powder coater and he is asking me what I want to do....

My shop just powdercoated the top, working fine.

The stuff can get pretty thick, and would obscure a bit of the texture on the bottom.
Enough to effect functionality? Not sure.. But really no reason to coat the bottom.

 

[JBTRXNJ]

My shop just powdercoated the top, working fine.

The stuff can get pretty thick, and would obscure a bit of the texture on the bottom.
Enough to effect functionality? Not sure.. But really no reason to coat the bottom.

Powdercoat is 1/10 of a mm thick… it’s likely more trouble masking it then just coating the whole thing.

 

[Damnjoel]

Here’s a look at them side by side.

I recently bought a second set of beadlocks. 5 of them actually. I also have the 24 hole beadlocks rings. All going to get powder coated tomorrow.

Does the thicker beadlocks ring and tire on the outside of rim make the wheels appear thicker in the wheel well?

I'm contemplating adding a 1" spacer to push the wheel outward just a little bit. I don't really want it to be super noticable but I think it will look better.

Thoughts ?

 

[Fifty]

There is a mathematical equation for that.

But technically yes, putting the tire on the outside of the rim will make the side wall push out a bit.
As well as square up the tread.

But it will only be about 1/2”

 

[B1GTRK]

Question. Anybody know anyone who’s selling these rings. I need 5.

Basically from what I’ve read so far. If anyone wanted to used different bolts, the size is M10x1.5 and 25mm long. My question is what is the length of the bolt for someone who is using the rings correctly as in the tire is between the ring and wheel vs someone using them as a 24-hole beauty ring?

I’m asking because I’ve read here that the bolts is 10.9mm and I don’t understand how there’s a -15mm difference. That can’t be the thickness of the bead of the tire is it?

I’m assuming the length of the bolts would be different for some who want the rings for a more aggressive look with more bolts vs someone who is stuffing the tire between the ring and the wheel.

Am I wrong?…

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Question. Anybody know anyone who’s selling these rings. I need 5.

Basically from what I’ve read so far. If anyone wanted to used different bolts, the size is M10x1.5 and 25mm long. My question is what is the length of the bolt for someone who is using the rings correctly as in the tire is between the ring and wheel vs someone using them as a 24-hole beauty ring?

I’m asking because I’ve read here that the bolts is 10.9mm and I don’t understand how there’s a -15mm difference. That can’t be the thickness of the bead of the tire is it?

I’m assuming the length of the bolts would be different for some who want the rings for a more aggressive look with more bolts vs someone who is stuffing the tire between the ring and the wheel.

Am I wrong?…

The bolt is Grade 10.9, which is the material, not the physical dimensions of the bolt. 10.9 is a high-strength material designation for metric fasteners, similar to Grade 8 for standard fasteners.

 

[B1GTRK]

The bolt is Grade 10.9, which is the material, not the physical dimensions of the bolt. 10.9 is a high-strength material designation for metric fasteners, similar to Grade 8 for standard fasteners.

Interesante! So M10x1.5 and 25mm long is the correct bolt size and Grade 8 or 10.9 is an indicator of the tensile strength of the bolt.



You’re a hero. America is in good hands with you at the helm. You got my vote @Dubstep Shep.

 

[Cromin8tor]

Folks with Beadlocks, and the actual lock ring, what are you using for hardware. The bolts from the factory are garbage, and I don’t even want to mount them. (Pretty much look like crappy galvanized bolts)

Let me know what you are using, and where I can get some nicer looking bolts.

(And no I’m not referring to the ones that come with the decorative ring)

I just pulled my factory bead locks and have black anodized and they look great

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Interesante! So M10x1.5 and 25mm long is the correct bolt size and Grade 8 or 10.9 is an indicator of the tensile strength of the bolt.



You’re a hero. America is in good hands with you at the helm. You got my vote @Dubstep Shep.

I can't confirm the bolt size, I haven't actually measured them lol. But I would be surprised if they weren't 10.9 Grade. The only stuff I know of that's better than 10.9 that's commercially available is ARP. Any stronger than that and you're looking at something like an MP35N fastener with certificates and a huge price tag.

I'd certainly run the ARP hardware over a standard 10.9 fastener and I would also use Nord-Lock (also called wedge lock) washers to prevent them backing off. Short of safety wire, Nord-Lock is as good as it gets. We use it on all our subsea or high vibration hardware.

Nord Lock Washers

 

[Damnjoel]

Not sure if the document that came with my OEM beadlocks will help anyone. The mopar beadlock rings are burly. I have bought numerous beadlocks over the last several years for sand cars. OMF wheels in California has made all the beadlocks. I recently dropped a factory beadlock TRX wheel off at OMF for them to develop an aftermarket beadlock ring. You'll have to write them an email to ask the status. I have had no leaks in my beadlocks since installing them.

 

[B1GTRK]

Not sure if the document that came with my OEM beadlocks will help anyone. The mopar beadlock rings are burly. I have bought numerous beadlocks over the last several years for sand cars. OMF wheels in California has made all the beadlocks. I recently dropped a factory beadlock TRX wheel off at OMF for them to develop an aftermarket beadlock ring. You'll have to write them an email to ask the status. I have had no leaks in my beadlocks since installing them.

Your setup is great. I'd like to get the ring in the same color as the truck. What hardware did you end up going with? I was planning on using a 12-point head on the bolts.

 

[Damnjoel]

Your setup is great. I'd like to get the ring in the same color as the truck. What hardware did you end up going with? I was planning on using a 12-point head on the bolts.

I used the hardware that came included with the 24 hole Mopar beadlock rings.

 

[Fifty]

I’ve been trying to find spare matching hardware.
I couldn’t believe how hard it is to find it.
I can find bolts and washers, but not the bolts where the washers are slightly undersized so they don’t fall off…
Or more importantly as I’ve been told: when the bolt gets a little loose, a loose washer slips and helps the bolt loosen under vibration quicker. Vs the washers that almost seem too small and can’t just come off, they can move less and not allow the bolt to loosen as easy under vibrations.

I have no idea if this is true. Any engineers here can correct this. But trying to find that bolt/washer combo in the correct size and strength… I can’t do it.

 

[Damnjoel]

All the big aftermarket wheel companies use ARP fasteners for assembling their wheels. That's the only fastener I would use

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I’ve been trying to find spare matching hardware.
I couldn’t believe how hard it is to find it.
I can find bolts and washers, but not the bolts where the washers are slightly undersized so they don’t fall off…
Or more importantly as I’ve been told: when the bolt gets a little loose, a loose washer slips and helps the bolt loosen under vibration quicker. Vs the washers that almost seem too small and can’t just come off, they can move less and not allow the bolt to loosen as easy under vibrations.

I have no idea if this is true. Any engineers here can correct this. But trying to find that bolt/washer combo in the correct size and strength… I can’t do it.

Use the washers I reference in my previous post. They're wedge-shaped with serrations on each side, so the washer gets taller when you back the bolt out, thus increasing preload on the bolt when it tries to back off. This keeps the bolt from turning.

I'm an engineer who designs pressure control and hydraulic equipment for land and subsea use, and I highly recommend these washers if you have any concerns about stuff backing off.

I can't confirm the bolt size, I haven't actually measured them lol. But I would be surprised if they weren't 10.9 Grade. The only stuff I know of that's better than 10.9 that's commercially available is ARP. Any stronger than that and you're looking at something like an MP35N fastener with certificates and a huge price tag.

I'd certainly run the ARP hardware over a standard 10.9 fastener and I would also use Nord-Lock (also called wedge lock) washers to prevent them backing off. Short of safety wire, Nord-Lock is as good as it gets. We use it on all our subsea or high vibration hardware.

Nord Lock Washers

 

[Damnjoel]

I’ve been trying to find spare matching hardware.
I couldn’t believe how hard it is to find it.
I can find bolts and washers, but not the bolts where the washers are slightly undersized so they don’t fall off…
Or more importantly as I’ve been told: when the bolt gets a little loose, a loose washer slips and helps the bolt loosen under vibration quicker. Vs the washers that almost seem too small and can’t just come off, they can move less and not allow the bolt to loosen as easy under vibrations.

I have no idea if this is true. Any engineers here can correct this. But trying to find that bolt/washer combo in the correct size and strength… I can’t do it.

I'd also roll with the mindset that beadlocks are a race-part and should be maintained regularly. checking turque and running through the torque sequence monthly. Over time, you'll see patterns and can adjust the frequency of torque checks. You might see that the torque stays in-place all summer but in the winter months you'll see loose bolts pop up more often. Just speculating.

I learned the hard way and ended up having to blow compressed air down into the 24 holes because there was sandblast material down in there from powder coating. It would not let the bolt drive down into the wheel. The bolt would hard-stop 1/8-.25" short of where it needed to be. I already put anti-seize down in the hole and it was a big ole mess. I took everything back apart and used a tap and compressed air to clean all 24 holes of the wheel. After that, setting the beadlock ring and running all the hardware down to spec was perfect, perfect, perfect.

 

[TRawrrX]

I'd also roll with the mindset that beadlocks are a race-part and should be maintained regularly. checking turque and running through the torque sequence monthly. Over time, you'll see patterns and can adjust the frequency of torque checks. You might see that the torque stays in-place all summer but in the winter months you'll see loose bolts pop up more often. Just speculating.

I learned the hard way and ended up having to blow compressed air down into the 24 holes because there was sandblast material down in there from powder coating. It would not let the bolt drive down into the wheel. The bolt would hard-stop 1/8-.25" short of where it needed to be. I already put anti-seize down in the hole and it was a big ole mess. I took everything back apart and used a tap and compressed air to clean all 24 holes of the wheel. After that, setting the beadlock ring and running all the hardware down to spec was perfect, perfect, perfect.

This is exactly why I didn't end up powder coating mine. Didn't wanna deal with the headache. I retorque the bolts every 500 miles. It's quick if you have a template.