Mopar Driveshaft Clunk Repair

I will share this video with the technician that is going to do mine, just got my part order in today. Thanks for the video!
 
So, applying the grease per instructions (without applying it to the male splines), upon assembly, literally pushes the vast majority of the grease to the very back of the female splined cavity, which is angled downhill when the driveshaft is mounted, such that the grease will never even touch most of the male splines surface area.
This is absolutely ludicrous, counter-intuitive, and makes absolutely no sense at all.
Brilliant.
My advice? Grease the piss out of both male and female splines areas. Insert male end completely, remove it and look at the grease coverage. Repeat if necessary to ensure that 100% of the male splines are coated in grease. Then complete your final assembly.
 
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This ain’t rocket science. It’s lubri-science.
 
I think it’s really just going to come down to whether their “special” lube lasts longer than all the others that have been tried which are only temporary.
 
Their hope is that it will be just enough to get you out of their hair until the warranty is up. I don’t see any type of grease lasting forever in this situation.

Unfortunately mine just started doing this at 8500 miles. I appreciate the video, it was nice to see what Ram is using and the process. That said, I don’t want the dealer anywhere near my truck so I’m gonna give Quicksilver Extreme Grease a shot. We use it on splined marine driveshafts which is a very similar concept. Take the stuff apart years later and it’s still on there.
 
I just did the new Mopar service bulletin driveshaft clunk repair on my truck and tried to make a decent video showing the process.
@PotterTRX do you have a part number for the kit? Part number for the grease? I would like to buy the kit and allow my brother's shop to perform the fix.
 
My truck was only 7 days away from not being involved in the bulletin (2-22-22 build). However, when I greased the splines this white grease from the video was already in there and was very dry. I thought it was white lithium grease or something. I guess the white magic grease didn’t work for me.

I doubt this official repair will last for more than 5,000 miles. I greased mine almost the exact opposite of what mopar recommends in the video. I greased the male side with the same grease my local Peterbilt dealer recommends for my severe duty trucks. When I inserted it back into the female side I made sure that the grease that squished out remained in the boot. It’s not packed or anything but there is definitely extra grease in there now.

Also, I could only get the splines back in one way so I’m not sure why you need to clock the orientation. I did clock the orientation of the driveshaft to the transfer case and rear axle though. We’ll see how it holds up but I trust my fix more than Mopars after seeing what they came up with.
 
So my build date is a few months after the cut-off but i do have a small clunk every once in a while but ONLY in sport trans setting. Does anyone else get this in sport mode?
 
So my build date is a few months after the cut-off but i do have a small clunk every once in a while but ONLY in sport trans setting. Does anyone else get this in sport mode?
Yes , mine was built beginning of may. I have exactly what you described . I think I felt it in baja as well.
 
We’ll have to keep an eye on it then. Good think i opted for that extended warranty. They can replace my shit 5-10x if necessary haha
 
What are the qualifying build dates?
 
when i worked at dealer chevy trucks had clunk on takeoff and it required changing yoke on front of drive shaft.was not recalled but should have been.wrong metal was used.makes me wonder if new design or metal type needed here.
 
makes me wonder if new design or metal type needed here.
Yeah, I think you’re right. But grease is way cheaper, so here we are.

Apparently GM’s fix for their driveline clunk was nickel plated slip yokes. They couldn’t just give people the “grease and go” like Ram. At least not on the 4WDs. There was no seal to stop grease from contaminating the transfer case oil. So they had to actually fix it.
 
Yeah, I think you’re right. But grease is way cheaper, so here we are.

Apparently GM’s fix for their driveline clunk was nickel plated slip yokes. They couldn’t just give people the “grease and go” like Ram. At least not on the 4WDs. There was no seal to stop grease from contaminating the transfer case oil. So they had to actually fix it.
Like some guy commented on the YouTube video, a new driveshaft outfitted with a zerk fitting is probably what needs to be done.
 
Anyone going to skip this and deal with the clunking until they come up with a real solution (assuming it comes out before end of your warranty)??
 

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