First TRX with a rear swaybar!!! Handles amazing!!!

I have never installed a sway bar so forgive my ignorance. When I installed it the bar was level like instructions stated. Now the truck bed is fully loaded almost to pay load capacity and the sway bar is angled down. I’m assuming this is normal but just want to verify. All good?
View attachment 14252
So I finally completely unloaded the bed and removed the rack system (box and shower) so now only the Retrax is on. However the sway bar is still at a downwards angle and the rear still has a slight squat to it. Looks like the sway bar is binding up the suspension. I’m going to remove it for the rest of our road trip so I won’t have anymore issues (also still don’t have the missing collars on it).
After doing some research on sway bar binding it looks like the brackets that hold the sway bar should be only slightly tightened so that the sway bar can be moved up and down with just your pinky. Don’t remember seeing anything about that when I researched the install. Looks like I over tightened the brackets causing the bar to not free rotate up and down with the suspension. Anyone agree or disagree about the tightness of the brackets? Think I caused any long term issues to either the sway bar or suspension? I’ve had it on for 4500 miles
 
You'll have a lot of bind in the links if using the supplied sleeves, which are too short. Especially if the bolts are properly torqued down. And if they're not, things tend to fall apart, as people have posted about earlier.

Earlier today I decided to sand down the surface of the sway bar itself where the bushings ride on it, as that is also an area of high friction. Much higher than it should be, as you've noticed.

But please don't only partially tighten the brackets' bolts. That would likely lead to broken fasteners.
Put some washers between the bracket and axle pads for now if you want to temporarily minimize the friction.

I'll know in a couple of days how much easier the bar will move in the axle mounts after some sanding,
and how well (or not) much stouter collar clamps will clear the axle brackets, after some minor grinding.

Plus, the completely friction free links are almost done. More on that later.
 
So this kit is not worth installing in it's current form?

Sucks for me because.. I already bought it.
 
So this kit is not worth installing in it's current form?

Sucks for me because.. I already bought it.
It is fine just the way it comes and a worthwhile addition to the TRX
 
So this kit is not worth installing in it's current form?

Sucks for me because.. I already bought it.
I wouldn't pass it up, but there is definitely room for improvement, I think.

If you already have the links, changing to longer sleeves helps a lot. The next step would be to swap the eye to a rod end, as show in a photo earlier. But it would be much more effective to have the rod end at the bottom, since that's where most of the movement is.

I'll order only the sway bar itself (no links) for mine as the "2.0 version" of the links won't use any of the included hardware anyway. Instead, it'll have rod ends top and bottom.

Not yet sure about what's the best way to minimize the friction in the axle bushings, but I'll try sanding first. Another alternative could be "square washers", spacing the metal out just a little bit from the pads on the axle housing.

Either way, obviously the goal is to have as little friction as possible everywhere, so the sway bar can do its job without affecting normal suspension movement.
 
There is enough room if you put the collars on before tightening down the brackets.
Would it matter if these were installed on the outside of each bushing instead of the inside? They would still provide horizontal movement and may fit better?
 
Would it matter if these were installed on the outside of each bushing instead of the inside? They would still provide horizontal movement and may fit better?
It wouldn't matter if you put them on the outside from a functional standpoint, except that the bends in the bar starts right past the bushings.

Also, it's really only the right side that's an issue, because of the ridges in the pads on the axle. If you mount the collars just right, very minor grinding (on the collar) would make it clear.
I'll try to remember posting a photo tomorrow that tells the story better.
 
Okay, you may be able to see where the included collar has rubbed slightly on the axle. Easy enough to grind or file some material off and make it clear, and it'll take a fair amount of suspension travel to make it happen in the first place. If the collar is installed just right.

I decided to go with regular affordable normal shaft collars (from McMaster Carr) instead.
They are smaller in overall diameter, but still needs to be ground down to clear the pad on the right side since they are wider.

Don't yet know how much difference in resistance it'll make to have sanded off the paint on the bar at the bushings, but should be able to install it soon and let you know.
DSCN3964[1].JPG
 
As promised, here's the link 1.0 and the 2.0.

With a longer sleeve in the bushing and a rod end on top, the modified link seems to work much better (less friction), but as mentioned, the rod end really should be where most of the movement happens and not on top.

With the 2.0 there's no friction whatsoever, but it was obviously more work to weld the bungs to a piece of 1-inch tubing than it was to just cut the eye off the supplied link. Used 5/8-inch rod ends.

In both cases the top ends are sleeved down to 10 mm and lowers to 1/2-inch.
DSCN3967[1].JPG
 
It's finally in there. Wish I hadn't picked a rainy day to do it, though, especially as the collars had to be ground down more than I thought...and then repainted.
Oh, and I apologize for saying that it's the right side that needs more attention. Been looking at the sway bar laying upside down on the bench for too long. It's the left side that's more cramped.

Another thing I'd overlooked is that with the female rod ends they needed to be spaced out from the upper bracket just a hair (you can see the washer). Okay, maybe they didn't have to be, but played it safe.

Also, sanding the textured paint off of the bar under the bushings made a big difference. It moves a lot more freely now.

It'll be interesting to get the feedback on how the TRX behaves with this setup.

DSCN3970[1].JPG
 
Cancelled TRX order so have this sway bar to sell. New in box. LMK if interested.
 
Cancelled TRX order so have this sway bar to sell. New in box. LMK if interested.
Hey kmr. I just placed an order for a kit but it’s on back order. If your willing to ship it to Ontario, then I’ll take it.
 
Hey kmr. I just placed an order for a kit but it’s on back order. If your willing to ship it to Ontario, then I’ll take it.
Let me look into this monday when i am in the office if thats ok. Do not see why not. I am in Ohio
 
I did my first oil change and today and everything looked great except for the end links. I ordered the two different parts due to the back order. I'll prep them and rust proof, just posting here so you all can check yours.
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So where did you get it? Everyone is saying ships in 8-12 weeks. Hellwig says it’s a special order item.
 
So where did you get it? Everyone is saying ships in 8-12 weeks. Hellwig says it’s a special order item.
I bought mine, and most everything else for my TRX, from Johnny at justboltons.com. He is a good guy and will help you if there are problems and I know that for a fact with firsthand knowledge. No problems with the sway bar. He along with probably everyone else is out of stock at the moment but he will get them in as soon as possible
 
Can't tell for sure, but it looks like there's nothing of the top bolt sticking out through the fixed nut.
If that's indeed the case, you should use longer bolts.
Swapping them out today as a mater of fact!
 
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