Bed cover with RamBar??

GP-Des · Mar 29, 2021

I believe it is the X4. Got it due to the aluminum underside, and (not that i have) being able to put something on top in the case of need. Again, never have, but also good for some bed security. It also (on the ford) is in my opinion 1/2" too short in overall length. Barely touching the cab rail of the bed in the front, and definitely barely touching the tailgate topper. Forward of the tailgate is great in weather. Anything in the last foot of the bed though... no bueno. Def would want to make sure your happy with fitment after install (even though it may be too late at that point) before signing off... I said it be fine, but if i could, i would have pulled it.

GP-Des · Mar 29, 2021

Just installed the Mopar BakFlip rendition on the TRX. No problem, I see where others say it touches the roll bar (which it does) so sliding it along the track for install is what needs to be done, no biggie. Both my screw down holes to the side rails were off, the same amount al be it, so after aligning the top, I just opened it and then stood in the bed, offset drilled the holes. 5/16" no biggie. Tightened er down and bobs your uncle. 30 minutes easy. Looks great. And other than the mopar sticker... to me, a carbon copy of the Bak-Flip.

IA_TRX · Apr 4, 2021

I had a shop install the Truxedo Sentry CT. It's tight when you roll it up but it works! You have to get in the bed to roll it up.

Skiborsy · Apr 5, 2021

Learned the hard way that unfortunately the Pace Edwards Ultragroove does NOT fit. The rails are semi-circular and wider than the Retrax XR rails. Now the tough decision of whether to ditch the RamBar or get a different cover. The photo shows how far over the cover would need to be to clear on the left.

Too bad since the RamBar looks so good! I picked it up Saturday, and now have 1,100 miles on it (including some on the dirt).

Bavanew · Apr 6, 2021

Skiborsy said:
Learned the hard way that unfortunately the Pace Edwards Ultragroove does NOT fit. The rails are semi-circular and wider than the Retrax XR rails. Now the tough decision of whether to ditch the RamBar or get a different cover. The photo shows how far over the cover would need to be to clear on the left.

View attachment 9998
Too bad since the RamBar looks so good! I picked it up Saturday, and now have 1,100 miles on it (including some on the dirt).
View attachment 9999

Could you not use a dremel and cut out a radius from the rail? Assuming that the track/sliders are not beyond the red line.

Skiborsy · Apr 6, 2021

Bavanew said:
Could you not use a dremel and cut out a radius from the rail? Assuming that the track/sliders are not beyond the red line.

A radius would not work since there'd be no way to slide the cover in from the back (that I can think of), but I think a cut on the red line should work. Definitely would have been easier to just buy the Retrax, though...I chose the Ultragroove since I didn't want to have to carry extra keys for the tonneau (latches internally instead).

Still on our trip so no Dremel with me, but may look into this a bit more when I get home (and maybe use a floor jack to pick up the tonneau/move it back and forth - my 7-year old has been helping, but he can only lift so much!).

By the way, it looks like the "normal truck" RamBar has 2 bolts per bed side, but they used SIX for the TRX! Installed, the Ultragroove covers up all of the holes (other than the front stake pocket); so clearly there's an issue installing without modification!

Bavanew · Apr 6, 2021

Skiborsy said:
A radius would not work since there'd be no way to slide the cover in from the back (that I can think of), but I think a cut on the red line should work

It's easier for me to provide ideas when I'm not the one dealing with the issue, and not being able to see it with my own eyes leaves more room for misjudgment.

Don't you install both frames/tracks to the bedrails, independently, before feeding the panels into the tracks from back to front?

I was thinking that you would cut out two radius sections per frame/track, then place the tracks over the rambar and bedrails, secure Into place, then feed the panels into the tracks.

Skiborsy · Apr 6, 2021

Bavanew said:
It's easier for me to provide ideas when I'm not the one dealing with the issue, and not being able to see it with my own eyes leaves more room for misjudgment.

Don't you install both frames/tracks to the bedrails, independently, before feeding the panels into the tracks from back to front?

I was thinking that you would cut out two radius sections per frame/track, then place the tracks over the rambar and bedrails, secure Into place, then feed the panels into the tracks.

Haha thanks/no worries. On the PE, you attach the rails to the canister as the first step, sliding them onto the canister (so the canister has to be positioned first). May be different on the retrax. See 5:09 in this video.

Whateversfare69 · Apr 7, 2021

TRX_Member271 said:
Has anyone that has gotten their truck with the rambar got a bed cover?

There is a guy in here that installed his bed liner with ram at. He added more weather stripping on rest of rail and removed two inside screws and cover fit!! Not sure what cover it was but looked great

Bavanew · Apr 7, 2021

Skiborsy said:
Haha thanks/no worries. On the PE, you attach the rails to the canister as the first step, sliding them onto the canister (so the canister has to be positioned first). May be different on the retrax. See 5:09 in this video.

I see! If you have the patience, I would do the following:
1. Place a couple of indicator marks over each rail and your bedrail so that you can reference later.

2. Disassemble the rails from the canist and remove.

3. Install rambar with only a cpl of bolts, loosely fitted, just to ensure it's in the correct position.

4. Place your rails over your bedrails and the rambar (without canister) referencing your previous marks to position the rails where they belong. (Front to back positioning)
5. Mark each of the four radius cuts on your rails, and make your cuts.

6. Remove rambar.

7. Install rails and canister, but keep canister and rails up high off the bedrails. (Per the attached screenshot from the video)

8. Disassemble one side of the rambar. (See attached pic for reference point)
9. With the rambar split into two sections, you can work each section Independently without the narrow clearance. With the canister and rails still up high, that will give you the space necessary to install the rambar bolts.

10. Lower canister with rails onto rambar and bedrail. Radius cuts should align with rambar tubes.

Also, I would apply clear or black silicone around each of the radius cuts.

Make sense?

Iumbastu · Apr 25, 2021

GP-Des said:
Just installed the Mopar BakFlip rendition on the TRX. No problem, I see where others say it touches the roll bar (which it does) so sliding it along the track for install is what needs to be done, no biggie. Both my screw down holes to the side rails were off, the same amount al be it, so after aligning the top, I just opened it and then stood in the bed, offset drilled the holes. 5/16" no biggie. Tightened er down and bobs your uncle. 30 minutes easy. Looks great. And other than the mopar sticker... to me, a carbon copy of the Bak-Flip.

Completely agree with this assessment. Super easy install. Just remove the inside bolts from the ram bar and install as you normally would. Once done drill 5/16” and reinstall bolts.

tkdr6 · Apr 25, 2021

For those interested in Retrax Pro XR with Ram Bar...

Here is a thread for install nuances:

Tonneau Covers?

Im interested in that one too, probably have to get rid of rambar... where did you get it and how much did it cost? Are these hard to self install? I bought the ram bar as an accessory from a local ram dealership ($1,100), I ordered the retrax Pro XR on Amazon ($1,900). Having my bed sprayed...

www.ram-trx.com

Here is a thread with install completed:

Tonneau Covers?

Im interested in that one too, probably have to get rid of rambar... where did you get it and how much did it cost? Are these hard to self install? I bought the ram bar as an accessory from a local ram dealership ($1,100), I ordered the retrax Pro XR on Amazon ($1,900). Having my bed sprayed...

www.ram-trx.com

Here is a thread showing bikes installed on the tonneau t-slot rails while pulling camper:

Ram TRX Towing A Camper

Took the family camping this weekend and towed with the TRX for the first time. This truck did absolutely amazing towing in Colorado at hight altitude (7,000 feet above seal level)! I would even say that the powertrain did as good if not better than my previous 2013 Ram 3500 with Cummins turbo...

www.ram-trx.com

Skiborsy · May 2, 2021

Bavanew said:
I see! If you have the patience, I would do the following:
1. Place a couple of indicator marks over each rail and your bedrail so that you can reference later.

2. Disassemble the rails from the canist and remove.

3. Install rambar with only a cpl of bolts, loosely fitted, just to ensure it's in the correct position.

4. Place your rails over your bedrails and the rambar (without canister) referencing your previous marks to position the rails where they belong. (Front to back positioning)
5. Mark each of the four radius cuts on your rails, and make your cuts.

6. Remove rambar.

7. Install rails and canister, but keep canister and rails up high off the bedrails. (Per the attached screenshot from the video)

8. Disassemble one side of the rambar. (See attached pic for reference point)
9. With the rambar split into two sections, you can work each section Independently without the narrow clearance. With the canister and rails still up high, that will give you the space necessary to install the rambar bolts.

10. Lower canister with rails onto rambar and bedrail. Radius cuts should align with rambar tubes.

Also, I would apply clear or black silicone around each of the radius cuts.

Make sense?

I finally got around to tackling this. TL;DR? I probably should’ve returned the cover and taken the 20% restocking fee. That said, I figured new rails are also $400 so might as well try!

After a lot of work, still not there yet.

After a lot of Dremeling, I went with a band saw and cut straight(ish) lines out for the RamBar, then painted the cuts and used vinyl door ding protector to keep the sharp edges hidden. I should’ve cut the bottom of the rails a bit more to get the edges inside the RamBar bolts and may go back and do that in the name of making things water tight. The front hold down clamps were a bear to get on due to the added height from the Ram Bar and the overall canister was a very tight fit/required persuasion, so the top cover has to be persuaded to fit, too.

I suspect I may be the only one dumb enough to try this mod, but of course feel free to ask any questions!

Bavanew · May 4, 2021

Skiborsy said:
I finally got around to tackling this. TL;DR? I probably should’ve returned the cover and taken the 20% restocking fee. That said, I figured new rails are also $400 so might as well try!

After a lot of work, still not there yet.

After a lot of Dremeling, I went with a band saw and cut straight(ish) lines out for the RamBar, then painted the cuts and used vinyl door ding protector to keep the sharp edges hidden. I should’ve cut the bottom of the rails a bit more to get the edges inside the RamBar bolts and may go back and do that in the name of making things water tight. The front hold down clamps were a bear to get on due to the added height from the Ram Bar and the overall canister was a very tight fit/required persuasion, so the top cover has to be persuaded to fit, too.

I suspect I may be the only one dumb enough to try this mod, but of course feel free to ask any questions!

Is the canister tight because of the rambar bedrail frames (vertical sections)? Or, is it because the cover rails are need to be trimmed back a bit more, as they are currently tight against the rambar bars? (Per the red line)

Also, what type of cutting/grinding bit did you use with the Dremel?

Skiborsy · May 4, 2021

Bavanew said:
Is the canister tight because of the rambar bedrail frames (vertical sections)? Or, is it because the cover rails are need to be trimmed back a bit more, as they are currently tight against the rambar bars? (Per the red line)

Also, what type of cutting/grinding bit did you use with the Dremel?

I started with a Dremel cutting disc, but then moved on to an 8 foot tall band saw since the discs weren't lasting very long. I've since removed the door edge guards from the bottom rail and clearanced around the bolts holding down the RamBar (using lots more Dremel cutting discs and sanders) to get it more flush. If doing it again, instead of cutting on the red line, I would have cut just to the inside of the red line.

The whole canister is a very tight fit between the vertical walls, so much so that the top cover is difficult to install flush/tighten down. I actually took the rails off the canister before cutting to make sure it would fit at all between the bedsides!

I suspect I'm CLOSE to water tight now. Ram didn't make that easy, either - the tailgate gaps on the sides at the top are MASSIVE!

Bavanew · May 7, 2021

Skiborsy said:
I started with a Dremel cutting disc, but then moved on to an 8 foot tall band saw since the discs weren't lasting very long. I've since removed the door edge guards from the bottom rail and clearanced around the bolts holding down the RamBar (using lots more Dremel cutting discs and sanders) to get it more flush. If doing it again, instead of cutting on the red line, I would have cut just to the inside of the red line.

The whole canister is a very tight fit between the vertical walls, so much so that the top cover is difficult to install flush/tighten down. I actually took the rails off the canister before cutting to make sure it would fit at all between the bedsides!

I suspect I'm CLOSE to water tight now. Ram didn't make that easy, either - the tailgate gaps on the sides at the top are MASSIVE!

View attachment 12304
View attachment 12305

Get yourself a set of these. (see photo)
You would have cut/shaved metal like a hot knife through butter.

JMC86 · May 8, 2021

Anyone installed BAK Revolver X4s rolling cover with RamBar??

Landude · Jul 14, 2021

tkdr6 said:
Just found out today that go rhino has a sports bar like the ram bar that will work with most tonneau covers.

Check out go rhino‘s sports bar 2.0

Have you found this makes it over the roof of the TRX without obscuring the view of the bed can ?

RocketCity_TRX · Oct 13, 2021

A Truxedo Pro X15 can be made to work with some trimming of the rails. You do have to get up in the bed to roll it all the way back though.

JOnline76 · Nov 29, 2021

IA_TRX said:
I had a shop install the Truxedo Sentry CT. It's tight when you roll it up but it works! You have to get in the bed to roll it up.
View attachment 9930 View attachment 9931 View attachment 9932 View attachment 9933 View attachment 9934

Hey there - I myself have a 2022 Ram Rebel with the Rambar that I'd prefer to keep on it. I have ordered the exact same tonneau cover as you have. Did you or the shop have to make any modifications to get the cover installed? - any advice/thoughts would be greatly appreciated. thanks!