Here is the thing: there is waaaaay more to it than I am going to type. I’m always happy to chat but I ramble on (ask anyone who has called me)
1) the kings are great shocks. And unlike most king oem series; they actually come tuned pretty good for all around. No real shortcomings anywhere.
2) the oem control arms are massively strong, very light, and have high angle ball joints. Meaning there is nothing to gain from aftermarket arms unless you go with Foutz offroad to add the bypass (which the upper shock mount hasn’t been released yet). If you get the upper control arms that use heims, you get the added ability for more dialed alignment but…
The rear arms people have said the aftermarket derlin and/or “Johnny joint” made the rear axle travel more free.
But it’s nothing like adding a track bar or going to a new leaf pack that eliminates axle wrap or any other major change. It’s a nuance.
3) the oem shocks: these are actually really really good. The aluminum shock bodies aren’t a gimmick. They shed heat. And heat is the deal. It’s why you go to a larger shock.
The larger the shock the harder it is to tune for chop, shudder and daily low frequency. Larger piston and shim is easier to tune for big hits but the rest is harder. It’s also why you don’t see 6” diameter shocks on TT.
So the oem shock has large shafts, the spool valve ports are technically mid body which lets the shock be a better shock (that’s a long talk). It has infinite position variable dampening. And the valves allow for really great and extreme valving.
But the oem tune rarely lets it get into those more aggressive valving spots. The trucks computers need to see you in the stupid zone of driving to get it to get into the stiffer comp zones. That 3.75V and above.
There has been two organizations that have placed our shocks on shock dynos and ran them. One used 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 Volt steps on the comp and rebound.
The other organization I believe had access to something a little more advanced.
I only have printouts of the 0-5v runs.
But man, the shock can shock. Cavitation results were top notch, as you would expect from a shock running comp adjusters etc etc. and reported heat management was “ideal”.
So that threw in the question of oil, base nitro charge amounts and “add base valving” vs “add comp adjuster” vs “can we hack the computer”
All three are being looked at. The company that does the hellcat suspension calibration won’t touch the trx. The aren’t familiar with off-roading. And won’t let me
Run their software with a shock tuner and come up with some options.
Im computer stupid so doing an arduino or pi or what ever that replaces the oem shock box is out because I don’t know any of that stuff.
Anyways, that leaves base tuning and add a comp adjuster. Both are being looked at now.
If your shocks were built in Ohio, chances are they can’t be rebuilt or tuned unless all new internals are made. Shaft, piston main oil cap.
If the shock was built in Mexico, there is a chance they were not a “crimped” set up. And can be rebuilt like any other shock. Just hope that they used off the shelf seals.
Either way, they can add a new hose, new reservoir and a comp adjuster. This will allow oil changes, nitro pressure tuning and comp adjuster adding base valving that can be ramped up.
Everything is with Ben at Filthy Motorsports. He is super busy, but if you want to send him an email, showing interest.
Reservoirs and stuff will cost probably $2500-2800. But that’s a fraction what new shocks are.