- Joined
- Sep 8, 2020
- Messages
- 378
- Gallery
- 10
- Reaction score
- 597
- Location
- Libertyville IL
- Current Ride
- 2021 Silver TRX
This Guy knows his stuff and the TRX is very impressive
I 1,000% agree with point number 2, if there is any chance you plan on actually taking this truck off roading keep the OEM wheels and tires and throw them back on before you go if you buy "better looking" ones aftermarket. If you had any extra "stance" or a larger tire and fully flexed the suspension you would rip the fender flare offa couple comments
- most competent reviewer ive seen on youtube.
-i get why 37s would be tough to tuck
-no rear sway bar is awesome, didnt realize...why no front disco sway bar?
-holy crap
If you can hear rocks rattling on the skid plate over the Super Charger you are driving it wrongNice to know if I get a ticking sound while driving to check for rocks on the skid plate
yea the $15k plus active stock suspension integrated into the vehicle computer doesn't leave me hopeful that there will be an aftermarket option that will give you all the same features with a significant lift....but if all you want is to replace the factory 35s with 37s I would assume a 1-2 inch body lift would give you the clearance you are looking for as long as you are okay with the lookthe issue is how much better 37s+ are then 35s. which always measure 34 lol
not talking about backspacing, deep dishs and forces, I really will want to upsize the tire eventually.
I dont see how we will ever get a quality aftermarket suspension lift, so if 37s are out of the question....then some quality clearanced 17s better become available.
He showed the right rear was all the way on the bump stop so unless you hit a jump that compresses the rubber bump stop slightly that is the worst case scenario in the rear. I haven't seen anything out there with a verified fully compressed static front spring, just the hundreds of clips of it landing a jump so front clearance is still speculative but in the rear it seems like there is likely room for a slightly taller tire but it was well into the fender and didn't look like there was any room for a wider tire or a wheel with any more offset if you want to keep full range of motionI'm not sure about the 37s on both counts.
I'm not sure that we cannot find a wider larger 35 that will do the job, and I'm not even sure that the 37s will not fit.
If he measured the gap between rear right fender and wheel we could have seen the clearance and known for sure. I doubt that in real life you will get any closer to the fender than on this ramp and it looked like there may be some space there.
So I think a front leveling kit or 1"-2" body lift should do the trick for sure.
Yes I noticed that too, but I didn't see the gap between wheel and fender which for this discussion is the pinch pointHe showed the right rear was all the way on the bump stop so unless you hit a jump that compresses the rubber bump stop slightly that is the worst case scenario in the rear. I haven't seen anything out there with a verified fully compressed static front spring, just the hundreds of clips of it landing a jump so front clearance is still speculative but in the rear it seems like there is likely room for a slightly taller tire but it was well into the fender and didn't look like there was any room for a wider tire or a wheel with any more offset if you want to keep full range of motion
Gotcha, I've never been a guy that appreciated the look of a "stanced" truck, if the question is can you put a slightly wider tire on the factory wheel for performance there isn't a good view that shows how far the stock wheel is inside the fender that I can find so unfortunately you will have to wait and see in person. But if the question is can you put on negative offset wheels with wider tires to get the "stanced" look where the tire is flush with or sticking past the fender flares the answer from this test is clearly no if you plan on doing anything that will fully compress the suspension like rock crawling jumping or even towing near or slightly over the maxYes I noticed that too, but I didn't see the gap between wheel and fender which for this discussion is the pinch point
No I have no interest in "the stance" Just with so much power, I want as much contact between my truck and whatever surface I'm on. So I want wider thread not wider stance : )Gotcha, I've never been a guy that appreciated the look of a "stanced" truck, if the question is can you put a slightly wider tire on the factory wheel for performance there isn't a good view that shows how far the stock wheel is inside the fender that I can find so unfortunately you will have to wait and see in person. But if the question is can you put on negative offset wheels with wider tires to get the "stanced" look where the tire is flush with or sticking past the fender flares the answer from this test is clearly no if you plan on doing anything that will fully compress the suspension like rock crawling jumping or even towing near or slightly over the max
Look up contact patch calculator and see what happens when you change 35x10 to 37x10 and to 35x12 you will see that going wider keeps you with lower wheel weight than going taller and gives you a lot more contact.Everyone needs to read up on tire diameter and rolling resistance. Contact patch grows substantially with diameter, not width.
I want a taller tire, not wider.
Yes sir definitely Moab, Not the rock crawling, There’s some areas north of town where you can let this thing rip!!@TRXJouster - Seems you and I are looking for the same end result, you will use tall tires with more sidewall and lower air pressure and I will use shorter wider tires with slightly higher air pressure. If you are going rock crawling taller skinnier tires work better, on mud and dunes it is the opposite.
The science behind both methods is valid, I think this is really a point of personal preference.
I will definitely use this off road - I'm thinking post covid Moab trip.
1. Get the truck
2. Get the Vaccine
3. Pack and go : )