TRX Brake Installation and Driving Experience

OE brake line to RB caliper installation:


Yeah let me get some tonight. The oem caliper has the brake line mounted on top of the caliper and the end of the line attached to caliper is a hard line that's L shaped. The RB caliper mounts the line on the side of caliper. The only way to give the line enough length is to mount the L facing up. When you install the wheel the tire hits the line. I had to bend the lines towards the engine to clear the tire. Stressing that hard line to bend it really concerns me. Because you are bending it where it's welded to the banjo bolt block
OE line is directional (Left & right are different) and confined to a square “seat” in the caliper with a top oil inlet and can only rotate 90 deg.

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If the OE line is installed to RB caliper with the same direction like shown below the line will touch the tire.
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However RB caliper is made with a “Side” inlet and is easier and more flexible to install (Allowing a 360 deg free rotation.)
The correct way is to reposition the OE line by turning it ~20 deg CCW towards control arm away from the tire for enough clearance, then tighten the banjo bolt.
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Installation & first driving impression:
Calipers come with XT910 compound brake pads which was voted by Trackhawk owners as the best pad for spirited and street driving, no squeaking, very low dust, linear modulation, delivering consistent brake torque under elevated temperature w/o fading.
Since you are the first member installing the caliper kit, your first impression on the caliper swap will be welcome and regarded.
Got through some first drive impressions yesterday. All my sentiments are positive. For context, I got the front caliper kit, which includes the XT910 pads that Warren referenced, but reuses the OE rotors. I only have 16k miles on my rig, so I didn't want to replace the OE rotors unnecessarily.

Install: It took about 3 low stress hours to install, very casually, including removing all wheels, flushing the brake fluid on all 4 corners (with Motul RBF-600), etc.

Bedding: Instructions for bedding the pads are included and were fairly easy to do safely. 6-8 brakings from 35 to 25mph + 3-4 brakings from 55 to 40mph + 10-15 minutes cool down, which I did by coasting on the highway to pick my buddy up from the airport.

Actual usage: My main intent was to improve the brake feel, as I felt the OE brakes were not confidence inspiring at all. That goal was absolutely achieved with just the front caliper replacement. The pedal is significantly firmer and it's easier to modulate the brakes, which results in a better handling car, since I can have more precise control of the brakes when going into a turn (some context: I drive road courses like Watkins Glen, VIR, Summit Point in a 911 GT3 with AP Racing calipers, so I really, really like using my brakes to load up the front to turn in [not just to stop]). In highway driving, I felt more confident driving at higher speeds and when going onto ramps, I felt comfortable approaching with more speed than usual, knowing I could shed the speed before the turn began. Framed differently, if the truck had came this way, no one would be complaining about the brakes. Also, the balance of the car is still 100%, which I assume is a factor of the strategic piston area that this setup was designed to have. Conversely, in my JL Wrangler (with a Magnuson Supercharger), I have 6 piston Baer front calipers w/ OE rear calipers, and while they do their job, there is absolutely a ton more front brake bias than the car came with. I've altered my driving habits to adapt to that, so no big deal, but it's nice having the OE balance with this RacingBrake kit, especially considering I do intend to tow and use this truck for other utility. Value wise, the front caliper upgrade feels like a no brainer to me. Framed differently, if it was offered as a factory option for the MSRP of this upgrade, I think nearly everyone would tick the box.

I don't really intend to do any 70 to 0 stops or equivalent, as that's simply not how I use this truck, but I'm glad to help answer any subjective questions if I can be helpful in that way.

Looks: They look great! The factory beadlock wheels cover up the bulk of the caliper, so it's more a subtle thing.


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-Anu
 
We just received a reply from Goodridge re brake line yesterday:

"Yes, this kit is planned for development very soon. Check back within the next 45 days"

GB members are entitled to purchase the lines at discounted prices when available.
 
For those who have the brake installed please feel free to post your comment/feedback.
 
For those who have the brake installed please feel free to post your comment/feedback.
Thanks for the review.
I purchased set of black rhino raid wheels 18 by 9.5 12 offset with bfgoodrich ko2 37/13.5r18 not knowing about the slight factory caliper rubbing on the inside wheel and wheel weights. I reinstalled my factory wheels looking for solution to this problem since im stuck with these wheels.
Do you think this caliper upgrade will clear ???
 

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Thanks for the review.
I purchased set of black rhino raid wheels 18 by 9.5 12 offset with bfgoodrich ko2 37/13.5r18 not knowing about the slight factory caliper rubbing on the inside wheel and wheel weights. I reinstalled my factory wheels looking for solution to this problem since im stuck with these wheels.
Do you think this caliper upgrade will clear ???
Ripatune just made a brake set that will fit 17" wheels
 
I finally installed the RB 18" 4 Piston BBK kit on my truck with the lightweight rotors on all four corners.

Install:
The RB kit itself was an absolute breeze to install. The only laborious part of the brake job was unfreezing my rusted rotors from the hubs and a couple of frozen pin guides in my rear calipers. I used the AGM Brake Bleeder kit to flush out all my old brake fluid and replaced it with DOT-4 Motul RBF 600. I replaced my rear pads with Hawk green pads. I clocked the brake lines to the RB front calipers away from the wheel and closer to the control arm. There are no signs of any rubbing.

Bedding Procedure:
The bedding process was incredibly easy as well. I was able to accomplish it in about 15-20 minutes of driving. I just did laps around a local industrial park on the weekend.

First Impressions:
I only have 100 miles on the kit so I will have a more detailed write-up later while hopefully comparing directly to my friend's TRX with factory brakes. My goal behind purchasing this kit was to enhance the pedal feel while extending the brake life before experiencing any fade. So far, it has accomplished exactly what I was hoping for.

As soon as I got in the truck and started the bedding process, I could immediately notice a difference with the brake pedal. It's now much firmer and reacts quicker, requiring less pedal travel to feel the truck slowing down. It doesn't feel like a super-touchy sports car pedal but not loose and mushy like a typical truck pedal. The kit achieved the exact results that I was looking for. I abused the brakes rather aggressively for the 100 miles I tested them. I did several 100-60mph and 60-15mph hard stops. I have yet to experience brake fade but it has already surpassed the factory setup. I will report back after I push this kit to its limits.

Issues:
I encountered one issue I will advise anyone to double-check their kit. The front calipers came pre-assembled to the mounting bracket and had pads already included. One of the screws bolting the caliper to the mounting bracket backed out. It first started making a chattering noise, I'm assuming it was the washer bouncing around as the bolt loosened. I stopped and checked all the bolts I touched but found nothing loose. It wasn't until another 5 miles down the road that I heard and felt horrible grinding noises. Fortunately, it's quite an easy fix but I will be double-checking all bolts that I did not touch as well.
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Pictures:
@Fifty
As requested, here are some pad comparison pictures. In the first picture, the factory pad is on top and the RB front caliper pad is on bottom. To my surprise, the RB pad seems to have a slightly smaller contact area.

I have two more installs to do so please let me know if there are any more detailed pictures you would like.
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For those having squeaky noise before stopping at traffic lights - This is usually caused by insufficient breaking in.
Unlike regular standard street pads, a proper breaking-in is a must for a performance pad (can resist to higher temperature w/o fading) in order to ensure a satisfactory installation - During the brake-in process it transfers a braking layer from the pad to the rotor surfaces.

Here is the recommended remedy:

Run @80 mph and do some repeated hard stoppings (6-8) until you see and smell the smokes.
After this is done the squeaking noise should go away.
 

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