Road to 800whp - Dynos included (759whp/693tq)

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You need one of these…. 😎
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if you keep pushing the power just have an extra motor handy. Or just go ahead and have a built motor started with the parts coming. The more power you push the riskier it gets. I speak from experience. I wouldn’t go to crazy on stock motor, if this isn’t your daily then by all means. But if this is your primary truck. Be conscious
Yeah I've been doing some research. It seems like the ATI 10% lower makes more sense than trying to go smaller on the pulley on 93. Not sure what your thoughts are on that. It seems like for other Hellcats people say once you hit 2.65 you're pulling so much timing that it's not worth the upgrade. That's what I'm reading at least.
 

Clarken015

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I'll be watching the avg MPG over the next couple of weeks to see what happens, fingers crossed it's not much worse. I would wholeheartedly agree with you if I was running an E85 setup.
I'll be doing something similar at the end of this month, I'll post the results. Definitely interested in how it feels on the street and the new gas mileage.
 

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I am curious what this does to the truck's warranty once all this has been done?
 

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Anything to do with the motor and drive train-GONZO
 

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Yeah I've been doing some research. It seems like the ATI 10% lower makes more sense than trying to go smaller on the pulley on 93. Not sure what your thoughts are on that. It seems like for other Hellcats people say once you hit 2.65 you're pulling so much timing that it's not worth the upgrade. That's what I'm reading at least.

Yes 10% lower would be more efficient at that point. Make sure you pin the crank if your going that route.

the issue you run into trying to make bigger power is heat. The faster you spin the blower the more heat is generated. You would then need to look into cooling mods to help mitigate the heat. Again if your driving the car everyday, consider the practicality of adding so much for the street. You should consider a track only setup and tune and then a street tune setup.

I run purely e85 in my Hellcat even on the street. But it doesn’t make sense for daily driving. Although the power is awesome and cooling is dialed in. Not practical.
 
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Yes 10% lower would be more efficient at that point. Make sure you pin the crank if your going that route.

the issue you run into trying to make bigger power is heat. The faster you spin the blower the more heat is generated. You would then need to look into cooling mods to help mitigate the heat. Again if your driving the car everyday, consider the practicality of adding so much for the street. You should consider a track only setup and tune and then a street tune setup.

I run purely e85 in my Hellcat even on the street. But it doesn’t make sense for daily driving. Although the power is awesome and cooling is dialed in. Not practical.
I talked to them again today and we're going to go with the ATI 10% lower and have a 2.75 upper on standby as well. We'll of course look at IAT's and see what everything looks like. In terms of additional cooling, what is there out there that's worth investing in potentially? I'm all ears if there are some solutions that can help with cooling that won't necessarily break the bank.
 

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I talked to them again today and we're going to go with the ATI 10% lower and have a 2.75 upper on standby as well. We'll of course look at IAT's and see what everything looks like. In terms of additional cooling, what is there out there that's worth investing in potentially? I'm all ears if there are some solutions that can help with cooling that won't necessarily break the bank.

I started off with an ice tank for the drag strip. Very effective. But requires upkeep and lots of ice.

for Street you can run a chiller, this helps with supercharger inlet air temps. Doesn’t do much for the drag strip though. Although if you pair it with the ice tank. It does a pretty damn good job.

you can also spray meth on boost only if you want.

the stock blower will get heat soaked real
Quick as you boost it more. I have the whipple 4.5 and the damn thing is a heat monster. I had that thing spun to 26-27 psi before. It got hot!

the new whipple 3.8 is got much better cooling design and I think it was the magnusson blower also had great cooling. Very efficient design.

one thing you learn between streeting and drag racing with this setup or maybe all setups is that your only making the real power your dyno says when you have proper temperature. Once the car gets to a certain temperature threshold than it pulls timing to keep it safe. So you may dyno 2000 whp but if the car is heat soaked it will be significantly lower. You need to monitor your temperature with this truck as much as anything, otherwise you aren’t making the power you think.

I had my Hellcat to 1230 whp and 1050 ft lbs and for a good while I wasn’t going any faster than my street setup at 998 whp and 880ftlbs. It took allot of patience and learning and data logging to dial the car in.
 

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Definitely interested to hear about your driving impression after these mods and an update on MPG (fingers crossed it hasn’t dropped much) can’t lose much range on these for roadtrips and off-roading!
 
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I started off with an ice tank for the drag strip. Very effective. But requires upkeep and lots of ice.

for Street you can run a chiller, this helps with supercharger inlet air temps. Doesn’t do much for the drag strip though. Although if you pair it with the ice tank. It does a pretty damn good job.

you can also spray meth on boost only if you want.

the stock blower will get heat soaked real
Quick as you boost it more. I have the whipple 4.5 and the damn thing is a heat monster. I had that thing spun to 26-27 psi before. It got hot!

the new whipple 3.8 is got much better cooling design and I think it was the magnusson blower also had great cooling. Very efficient design.

one thing you learn between arresting and drag racing with this setup or maybe all setups is that your only making the real power your dyno says when you have proper temperature. Once the car gets to a certain temperature threshold than it pulls timing to keep it safe. So you may dyno 2000 whp but if the car is heat soaked it will be significantly lower. You need to monitor your temperature with this truck as much as anything, otherwise you aren’t making the power you think.
Appreciate the information. I've seen a number of threads about the Interchiller spacer plates, what are your thoughts on those? Can we reuse the same ones they have for the Trackhawk? I've seen people posting they made actual power gains as well as dropping temps pretty significantly.
 

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Appreciate the information. I've seen a number of threads about the Interchiller spacer plates, what are your thoughts on those? Can we reuse the same ones they have for the Trackhawk? I've seen people posting they made actual power gains as well as dropping temps pretty significantly.
Spacer plates are kinda bullshit in my opinion.

what I learned from my setup that mainly the restriction I was having with my whipple was the amount of internal manifold space under the blower. The air was being forced down into such a tiny space and then had to immediately blast 90 degrees to the runners to enter the chilling brick before the engine. The plastic spacer plates only raise the entire blower up, complete assembly and all, it give more clearance to the chilling Brick. The air is already being forced down into the chilling brick. But above that plate, where the supercharger is is only a thin amount of space between the rotor housing and where the air exits. Where it then has to go immediately 90degrees.

my shop fabbed up a custom plate for the whipple supercharger that actually raises the blower itself up higher creating a larger space beneath the rotors to make it easier to evacuate that massive amount of air leaving the whipple . This actually helped better than the plates. I noticed nothing by using the spacer plates.
 
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Spacer plates are kinda bullshit in my opinion.

what I learned from my setup that mainly the restriction I was having with my whipple was the amount of internal manifold space under the blower. The air was being forced down into such a tiny space and then had to immediately blast 90 degrees to the runners to enter the chilling brick before the engine. The plastic spacer plates only raise the entire blower up, complete assembly and all, it give more clearance to the chilling Brick. The air is already being forced down into the chilling brick. But above that plate, where the supercharger is is only a thin amount of space between the rotor housing and where the air exits. Where it then has to go immediately 90degrees.

my shop fabbed up a custom plate for the whipple supercharger that actually raises the blower itself up higher creating a larger space beneath the rotors to make it easier to evacuate that massive amount of air leaving the whipple . This actually helped better than the plates. I noticed nothing by using the spacer plates.
Interesting - I was going off of feedback posted on the Hellcat forum here as there were dyno tests and IAT tests done with them.


But who knows. Just trying to see what I can do.
 

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Interesting - I was going off of feedback posted on the Hellcat forum here as there were dyno tests and IAT tests done with them.


But who knows. Just trying to see what I can do.
Think about it. It’s heat. Once the cars hot it’s hot

Sure if some spacers get put in between it will keep the heat soak from spreading for what? A couple minutes? Enough to get a dyno pass. Maybe a drag pass, but once it’s hot, it’s hot and your not stopping the heat no matter what.

how long does a cold car take to get to operating temps?? About that long
 

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Dyno number doesn’t matter, ET’s matter, show proof that you actually go faster. That’s what matters
 

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This all seems like a whole lot of doing for the HP. Especially when you talk about taking the engine down to the cam. What's the real gain past the ripa 750 kit. From the outside here it would seem for $3450 + install + tune you can get a package from Ripa that will give 750 at the wheels. A very good $$ verses HP ratio. If you want a track machine for the street the sky's the limit $$ but I would certainly think R750 is good enough for a DD. There was one guy on the forum that did the 800 ripa package and he was very satisfied
 
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This all seems like a whole lot of doing for the HP. Especially when you talk about taking the engine down to the cam. What's the real gain past the ripa 750 kit. From the outside here it would seem for $3450 + install + tune you can get a package from Ripa that will give 750 at the wheels. A very good $$ verses HP ratio. If you want a track machine for the street the sky's the limit $$ but I would certainly think R750 is good enough for a DD. There was one guy on the forum that did the 800 ripa package and he was very satisfied
I like taking the extra step, doing what's outside of the norm. Not to mention the headers and mids were partly for sound, but they ended up of course helping tremendously with overall airflow. I think it sets the truck up to to go the next level. If we're seeing stability at over 800whp once the ATI lower and potentially a 2.75 pulley are on, the other mods done helped get it there.

If anything this will be a reference point for what the top of the food chain looks like in terms of stock blower / 93 setup.
 

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I like taking the extra step, doing what's outside of the norm. Not to mention the headers and mids were partly for sound, but they ended up of course helping tremendously with overall airflow. I think it sets the truck up to to go the next level. If we're seeing stability at over 800whp once the ATI lower and potentially a 2.75 pulley are on, the other mods done helped get it there.

If anything this will be a reference point for what the top of the food chain looks like in terms of stock blower / 93 setup.
You need to change the name of the thread, road to 1000RWH
 

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I think everyone would gain a lot of knowledge on here if they spent some time watching banks power youtube on building power on a duramax. Its a diesel but a lot of the basic things apply. I learned a lot on a sti turbo on compressing air and power. Anyone correct me if I'm wrong. I never got payed to boost cars or anything. Just another hobbyist who loves power. So my thinking on the spacers is since the blower is compressing air its generating heat its self. So the spacer plates is not going to do a hole lot as far as cooling goes. Especially when your running pulleys and running more boost. On the sti it was huge but the hot air was cooled before it went into the aluminum intake and the runners were about 20 inches long so the hot plenum had more time to transfer heat. I was thinking of getting one of those inner chiller set ups where it uses the ac to cool the blowers after cooler water circuit and in my mind all this would do is cool the air and help prevent predetonation. The power you would gain would be from timing not so much denser air as its after the blower. The more presure you create the more heat you create.
Now on to the headers. Id say it was a good idea with your mods. There doing a lot more then making noise. Your blower is a fixed displacement pump and it moves a volume of air per rotation. The pulleys are increasing the rpms and the pump is moving more air. Pressure is created by the resistance to the flow of air. The side affects of that resistance and pressure is heat. So the headers and exhaust helped reduce some of the systems resistance to flow of air. There by allowing the blower to move the same amount of air with less heat and pressure allowing more timing and or safety margin. The blower may even move a bit more air due to what ever losses there are of air slipping past the screws would be less due to the air being denser and at a lower psi. Air density is the key to power and figuring out how to get there efficiently is the key in my mind. You can crank up a blower but at some point it gets to a point of diminishing returns.
on the intake note im waiting for afe’s intake as well. I just cant see pulling 180 engine bay heat into the air intake and asking the blower to heat it up more. Most cold air intakes should be called hot air intakes. Afe has the right idea in my opnion and they told me they plan on having a dino sheet once there testing is done. I think theres a reason the other companys don't have that. If your drag racing and you keep your temps down it would help but everyday driving it get hot in there. Maybe thats why bwoody has a special harness for the intake temp. Its says in the description some comstomers are getting intake over temp and a harness fixes it? Im no pro so correct me if I'm wrong on anything.
 
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