Rigid Scene Lights in place of MOPAR OEM Bed Lights

ascott

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Hi all,

Hoping someone with more electrical knowledge than me can confirm/advise on the feasibility of swapping my factory bed lights for Rigid Industries Scene Lights?

Basically I am going to put in a bedrug and the BuiltRight Molle Bedside panels which end up blocking the output of the factory bed lights. My hope, is that I can simply pop out the factor bed-side lights, remove the factory plug and play connection, and splice those wires to the Rigid Industries scene lights and then mount the scene lights on the panels themselves while retaining 100% factory operation (i.e. bed lights turn on when the tailgate is down). A step further, if I could figure out how to have one of the AUX switches turn them on/off on-demand - so they don't time out if I need them on longer. I really don't want to have to run more wires - so since the factory bedlights are already there - can I make use of their power? The Rigid only comes with 2 wires - a red one and a black one.


In the interest of providing some additional information, I am going to basically copy and paste the Rigid specs - please note that I have zero (actually negative) knowledge of electrical stuff (i.e. voltage, amp, watts - could be lamp, spoon, tree).

Watts - 9
Amp Draw - .75
Voltage Max - 36

And lastly, another option if this won't work - would be maybe to mount the scene lights to the Retrax PRO MX canister - the angle of the lights would still light up the bed well enough. I think I like these little lights - they are angled and really blend in nicely. If I can figure out this - I am going to buy a second set and see if I can mount them under the rear bumper somewhere (maybe use Shifts and Grins rear tow hook mount and just modify it....idk, about that yet.

Appreciate any help on the electrical stuff...
 

DIN0ZR

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It will depend on how sensitive the truck's computer is to wanting to see a specific current draw on that circuit. If it's expecting the factory bed lights and you give it the Rigids, and the two have different power draw profiles, then it might freak out and set a fault. Or the computer may not care at all. I really don't know. I know in the Raptor world the computers are very sensitive to current draw, which makes plans like yours tough to pull off. Your plan is sound though. Need someone with experience with Rams to comment whether the computer will freak about seeing a different current draw on the bed light circuit.
 

DanZman

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Your plan sounds solid. I’d recommend using a lower wattage light that will be better matched to the factory wiring and programming. These Baja designs lights should be just about perfect and still be much brighter than factory.


Rigid makes a similar product but their website sucks balls and I wasn’t interested in hunting them down.

Let us know how it works out. I may end up doing the same thing.
 
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ascott

ascott

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Rigid makes a similar product but their website sucks balls and I wasn’t interested in hunting them down.
totally agree about Rigid's website - very difficult to figure out what is what - you really have to be familiar with their 30 different series types to figure out what lights you are looking for. I did see some of their little pod style flat mounting rock lights - those might work - I just liked the look of the Scene light - the housing looks like it was MADE for my application.

I am about to pull the trigger on the third brake light with dual antenna set up from Bullet Proof Diesel. They come with some Rigid amber lights (which I think look cool and help my buddies in trailing vehicles keep an eye on me when driving on the highway). I don't plan on needing a radio anytime soon - so I will probably just have to find some little caps to cover the antenna threads - lots of choices out there, but need to find the low profile ones since the mounting base is a little recessed. I just like the fact that this looks pretty damn factory - no drilling, and retrains full functionality of the camera mirror. However - it looks like I am going to have run wires if I want the damn thing to work - so I might as well just do everything at once.
 

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totally agree about Rigid's website - very difficult to figure out what is what - you really have to be familiar with their 30 different series types to figure out what lights you are looking for. I did see some of their little pod style flat mounting rock lights - those might work - I just liked the look of the Scene light - the housing looks like it was MADE for my application.

I am about to pull the trigger on the third brake light with dual antenna set up from Bullet Proof Diesel. They come with some Rigid amber lights (which I think look cool and help my buddies in trailing vehicles keep an eye on me when driving on the highway). I don't plan on needing a radio anytime soon - so I will probably just have to find some little caps to cover the antenna threads - lots of choices out there, but need to find the low profile ones since the mounting base is a little recessed. I just like the fact that this looks pretty damn factory - no drilling, and retrains full functionality of the camera mirror. However - it looks like I am going to have run wires if I want the damn thing to work - so I might as well just do everything at once.
Yes! The website is impressively difficult.

The Rigid lights included with the BPD housing are exactly what I was thinking of.
 
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