Remove restrictive air filter and test HP increase.

Bro are you calling me fat? :ROFLMAO:
We just did it to test it, seems like lots of people were asking. I’m waiting on the aFe intake system myself.

No, I'm calling your cost/benefit analysis a little lacking :ROFLMAO::unsure:🤓

(tongue-in-cheek of course)
 
No, I'm calling your cost/benefit analysis a little lacking :ROFLMAO::unsure:🤓

(tongue-in-cheek of course)
It was just for testing purposes as I said. The consensus was the material being used to filter sand and the like had to be pretty restrictive which it was, but from a cost/benefit analysis you are correct. But there are many who will do anything to squeeze whatever they can out in terms of power and chasing a number on a dyno graph.
 
Hey, a 4 hp increase is nothing to sneeze at. It'd be a huge improvement on a 12 hp Renault, for example.

Then again, you wont be seeing a 4 HP gain running filterless on a 12-HP Renault. So. . . whatever . . .
 
Holy crap, you wouldn’t even notice 20hp gain on a 6350 lb vehicle!
 
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I removed the air filters and changed my plugs to the NGK LFR7AIX and between the 2 changes I received about 50HP gains based on my dash Dyno chart. I would love to do a real dyno test to verify that.
 
I think maybe you get 3-5hp gain max at the wheels
Thats huge from an air filter if I recall. I think the best one could expect would be 3hp at the flywheel. Which is 1 at the rear wheels. But I’m not a Dyno tuner or anything. Im just a seat of the pants tuner.
 
Warning rambling post:

I’m not so worried about the airbox and the entry to the airbox. That is all actually really really good. And why afe copied it more or less.

The dual filter allows tons of cfm to flow with minimal restriction and using different materials is going to really just get you in the +/- through out the rpm range.

It’s everything on the other side. If direct injection engines have taught people anythjng, it’s that smooth flow is really important. Velocity.
Crappy bends, steps, helmholtz chambers etc etc cost throttle response and power. And that power isn’t always at peak, it’s often below the middle rpm number.
Think about the ported snout that uses a stock throttle body and where it delivers that 20 hp bump.

I think finding intake tubing and port matching everything, while keeping the oem airbox, and using a quality high fold count filter, is the second best. And possibly (I’m giving them the benefit of the doubt right now) when aem finally releases theirs, a potential better cfm filter system that uses the cool air charged and large plenum chamber, may be the most ideal.

Worth the cost? Only you can say.
 
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