PSA transfer case over heating message

nyinstaller

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PSA update. Transfer case overheating message.

Ok a bunch of people have probably seen my post about the message and what I found and did to fix it on my vehicle.

Fast forward two weeks I had no issues but since I had a local dealer order the part I decided I was going to change it.

Got the part swapped and all was good for another 300 or so miles. And then boom started happening again. I looked at the motor that was installed under warranty and it was brand new. Plus I watched the guy swap it. I used to work there so I was able to do so.

Ok so today it failed again only this time worse. This time the truck got stuck in 4wd all the time. With no disconnects which happen when your turning. so every time I would try to turn most of the time the vehicle would damn near come to a stop or chirp the tires as I was turning and I had to power through it.

Plus the message came up every time I accelerated from a stop.

When I removed the transfer case motor ( was on level ground ) the car lunged toward. This was after driving the truck into the shop. Prior to that the truck was off for hours. So the transfer case was fully engaged when I removed the motor causing it to finally free up and lunging forward and then the trans parking pin finally engaged. Guess the active four wheel drive didn’t allow that to happen. Which also made it obvious the motor was stuck in the engaged position.

Before even taking the motor off I can see the same signs of the motor over heating. This time I took pictures and will explain. Below are all the pictures.

First pic is the motor it self. Notice the shiny parts or discolored parts in motor body.
CD7D348D-2BCA-4FA0-9B8D-C70D6DEE2241.jpeg


Second pic is what it looks like taken apart.
4E8991DE-E2E5-47AA-A11B-CDF7030A9B37.jpeg

Third pic. Is the locking clip on the clutch side of system removed. Use a hook tool comes out pretty easy
E56ABA7C-81E3-413D-87AA-8305591809B4.jpeg

Fourth pic is what the clutch pack looks like when clip is removed
6ED37291-B03E-4001-A1BA-1AAB386C6364.jpeg

5th pic is the clutch pack with three screws removed.

FDCE7ED0-25A6-4AAE-A4A4-73F2E2D0DF95.jpeg

6th pic is the clutch pack assemble. Look at the excessive wear on the clutch plates. That’s 3-400 miles.

1C4FAFF1-4899-4419-8293-904DC5BE49F2.jpeg

Pic 7 is the clutch assemble taken apart showing the springs that push the clutch plates etc together before trimming them down.

71525020-C361-43DC-A78E-5E94A5C05F41.jpeg

8th pic is after I trim the springs about one coil from what they were. But still above the hugest point of the hole they fit in.

F1302B9F-33CE-4507-85C5-6A6E7770174A.jpeg

9th pic. Everything back together and locking clip re installed Using a socket larger than the center hole I pressed it down.

4B21A153-21B8-42E6-A755-B6878B8C262C.jpeg

Everything only goes together one way so look at pictures if you want to do this your self.

10th pic is the codes in the system as seen by oem software.

3327CE3D-87E2-48C8-B0CF-A3D68307E60B.jpeg

Drove the vehicle 30 mins home no issues. Also very audible engage disengage is heard now at first ignition activation (which I’m used to hearing in other Chrysler 4wd vehicles.)

Since this is the second motor same issue I’m just going to try this fix out longer and see how it goes down.

Hope this helps
 
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Interesting that other don’t seem to be having these issues and you have had two in a row. Is it possible there is something else going on as a route cause? Maybe it’s not just the motor pushing to hard into the transfer case. Maybe doin the transfer case has something pushing back on the motor? Just thinking out loud here. You are lucky that you are competent enough to work through this yourself. I know this would be super frustrating for most of us.
 
Interesting that other don’t seem to be having these issues and you have had two in a row. Is it possible there is something else going on as a route cause? Maybe it’s not just the motor pushing to hard into the transfer case. Maybe doin the transfer case has something pushing back on the motor? Just thinking out loud here. You are lucky that you are competent enough to work through this yourself. I know this would be super frustrating for most of us.
This has been reported by plenty, I’m definitely not the only one. But I guess I am lucky it’s happened twice. Considering how much I know about these systems and vehicles and how the transmission Lunged forward when I pulled the motor it was obvious it’s over heating and was stuck. The transfer case is the female or receiving end. If it were pushing on the motor I think that would mean it has come apart internally. As well as the excessive wear on the clutch plates. And even more so after the first motor I repaired I went from the message everyday. To not once driving for two weeks before it was replaced. Ive never taken a transfer case motor apart besides my two so maybe the wear is normal. But it doesn’t seem that way.

Originally when I researched the issue. People stated to check fluid levels. Mine were fine. And that motor as show was not like that when it was installed. It happens over the course of time since a dealer tech installed it. It’s a simple machine. But there is plenty of times I’ve installed items that were bad or went bad prematurely. Especially since the plandemic started. Quality of stuff has definitely suffered.

Of course your right if it happens after this than something else is happening. it’s just hard to see how the transfer case would effect the motor.
 
Great write up. If you get a chance, can you snap some pics of the motor in the TC? I do not have my truck yet and I have a long road trip planned when I pick it up. I want to be able to fix this if I need to.
 
Great write up. If you get a chance, can you snap some pics of the motor in the TC? I do not have my truck yet and I have a long road trip planned when I pick it up. I want to be able to fix this if I need to.
the motor is very easy to see and get too. its on the drivers side and the motor mounts from front to back with 3 10mm bolts. only caviot is you should not attempt to fix when vehicle is hot as you will have to reach through the exhaust to access.
 
the motor is very easy to see and get too. its on the drivers side and the motor mounts from front to back with 3 10mm bolts. only caviot is you should not attempt to fix when vehicle is hot as you will have to reach through the exhaust to access.
Thanks for taking the time to post this!👍
 
Is this failing in the 4wd auto mode or 4hi mode? Is there a build date time frame that this is happening with? I see a recall comming in the near future. I wonder if it's a bad batch, or if all of them are out of tolerance and will eventually fail at one point. Thanks for the info.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is very interesting and I see a TSB or possibly a recall in the future. Hopefully it is isolated to a build range. The root cause failure analysis will determine what the problem is. Could be even something as straightforward as tolerance issues on some of the assembly component parts.
 
Good morning. I had my first message the day I picked up the track back in January and it continue to show up frequently. I finally took it to the dealership and they could not get the message to come on during test drive and no codes showed up on the system. I shared this post and they agreed to order the part and replace it. I have it back and will start testing to see if the message is gone. I was also noticing some occasional jerking while in slow speed maneuvers which they think could have been related.
 
Good morning. I had my first message the day I picked up the track back in January and it continue to show up frequently. I finally took it to the dealership and they could not get the message to come on during test drive and no codes showed up on the system. I shared this post and they agreed to order the part and replace it. I have it back and will start testing to see if the message is gone. I was also noticing some occasional jerking while in slow speed maneuvers which they think could have been related.
PLEASE update after you have driven it for a few moles and keep doing it because this is one that has me concerned over the long term.(y)
 
PSA update. Transfer case overheating message.

Ok a bunch of people have probably seen my post about the message and what I found and did to fix it on my vehicle.

Fast forward two weeks I had no issues but since I had a local dealer order the part I decided I was going to change it.

Got the part swapped and all was good for another 300 or so miles. And then boom started happening again. I looked at the motor that was installed under warranty and it was brand new. Plus I watched the guy swap it. I used to work there so I was able to do so.

Ok so today it failed again only this time worse. This time the truck got stuck in 4wd all the time. With no disconnects which happen when your turning. so every time I would try to turn most of the time the vehicle would damn near come to a stop or chirp the tires as I was turning and I had to power through it.

Plus the message came up every time I accelerated from a stop.

When I removed the transfer case motor ( was on level ground ) the car lunged toward. This was after driving the truck into the shop. Prior to that the truck was off for hours. So the transfer case was fully engaged when I removed the motor causing it to finally free up and lunging forward and then the trans parking pin finally engaged. Guess the active four wheel drive didn’t allow that to happen. Which also made it obvious the motor was stuck in the engaged position.

Before even taking the motor off I can see the same signs of the motor over heating. This time I took pictures and will explain. Below are all the pictures.

First pic is the motor it self. Notice the shiny parts or discolored parts in motor body.
View attachment 15249

Second pic is what it looks like taken apart.
View attachment 15250
Third pic. Is the locking clip on the clutch side of system removed. Use a hook tool comes out pretty easy
View attachment 15251
Fourth pic is what the clutch pack looks like when clip is removed
View attachment 15252
5th pic is the clutch pack with three screws removed.

View attachment 15254
6th pic is the clutch pack assemble. Look at the excessive wear on the clutch plates. That’s 3-400 miles.

View attachment 15255
Pic 7 is the clutch assemble taken apart showing the springs that push the clutch plates etc together before trimming them down.

View attachment 15256
8th pic is after I trim the springs about one coil from what they were. But still above the hugest point of the hole they fit in.

View attachment 15257
9th pic. Everything back together and locking clip re installed Using a socket larger than the center hole I pressed it down.

View attachment 15258
Everything only goes together one way so look at pictures if you want to do this your self.

10th pic is the codes in the system as seen by oem software.

View attachment 15259
Drove the vehicle 30 mins home no issues. Also very audible engage disengage is heard now at first ignition activation (which I’m used to hearing in other Chrysler 4wd vehicles.)

Since this is the second motor same issue I’m just going to try this fix out longer and see how it goes down.

Hope this helps
Great write up, thank you. I have a feeling that I might be doing this at some point. Mine is getting worse.
 
Great write up, thank you. I have a feeling that I might be doing this at some point. Mine is getting worse.
Good morning.
PLEASE update after you have driven it for a few moles and keep doing it because this is one that has me concerned over the long term.(y)
Good Morning. I have added about 300 miles of mostly highway use, which is where I would mostly get the message, and have not seen the message so far. Hopefully this is the long term solution to the problem.

Just FYI the part was not in stock at my dealership but they had it sent next day priority and about 1 hour to install.
 
PSA update. Transfer case overheating message.

Ok a bunch of people have probably seen my post about the message and what I found and did to fix it on my vehicle.

Fast forward two weeks I had no issues but since I had a local dealer order the part I decided I was going to change it.

Got the part swapped and all was good for another 300 or so miles. And then boom started happening again. I looked at the motor that was installed under warranty and it was brand new. Plus I watched the guy swap it. I used to work there so I was able to do so.

Ok so today it failed again only this time worse. This time the truck got stuck in 4wd all the time. With no disconnects which happen when your turning. so every time I would try to turn most of the time the vehicle would damn near come to a stop or chirp the tires as I was turning and I had to power through it.

Plus the message came up every time I accelerated from a stop.

When I removed the transfer case motor ( was on level ground ) the car lunged toward. This was after driving the truck into the shop. Prior to that the truck was off for hours. So the transfer case was fully engaged when I removed the motor causing it to finally free up and lunging forward and then the trans parking pin finally engaged. Guess the active four wheel drive didn’t allow that to happen. Which also made it obvious the motor was stuck in the engaged position.

Before even taking the motor off I can see the same signs of the motor over heating. This time I took pictures and will explain. Below are all the pictures.

First pic is the motor it self. Notice the shiny parts or discolored parts in motor body.
View attachment 15249

Second pic is what it looks like taken apart.
View attachment 15250
Third pic. Is the locking clip on the clutch side of system removed. Use a hook tool comes out pretty easy
View attachment 15251
Fourth pic is what the clutch pack looks like when clip is removed
View attachment 15252
5th pic is the clutch pack with three screws removed.

View attachment 15254
6th pic is the clutch pack assemble. Look at the excessive wear on the clutch plates. That’s 3-400 miles.

View attachment 15255
На рис. 7 показан узел сцепления в разобранном виде, на котором видны пружины, сжимающие диски сцепления и т. д. перед их обрезкой.

View attachment 15256
8-е фото после того, как я обрезал пружины примерно на один виток от того, что было. Но все же выше самой большой точки отверстия, в которое они влезают.

View attachment 15257
9-й рис. Все обратно вместе и стопорный зажим снова установлен Используя гнездо больше, чем центральное отверстие, я надавил на него.

View attachment 15258
Все идет вместе только в одном направлении, поэтому посмотрите на фотографии, если хотите сделать это самостоятельно.

10-е изображение - это коды в системе, видимые OEM-программным обеспечением.

View attachment 15259
Доехал до дома минут 30 без проблем. Также теперь при первом включении зажигания слышен очень отчетливый звук выключения зажигания (я слышу это в других полноприводных автомобилях Chrysler).

это вторая проблема с двигателем, я просто собираюсь попробовать это исправить и посмотреть, как она пойдет.

Надеюсь это поможет

PSA update. Transfer case overheating message.

Ok a bunch of people have probably seen my post about the message and what I found and did to fix it on my vehicle.

Fast forward two weeks I had no issues but since I had a local dealer order the part I decided I was going to change it.

Got the part swapped and all was good for another 300 or so miles. And then boom started happening again. I looked at the motor that was installed under warranty and it was brand new. Plus I watched the guy swap it. I used to work there so I was able to do so.

Ok so today it failed again only this time worse. This time the truck got stuck in 4wd all the time. With no disconnects which happen when your turning. so every time I would try to turn most of the time the vehicle would damn near come to a stop or chirp the tires as I was turning and I had to power through it.

Plus the message came up every time I accelerated from a stop.

When I removed the transfer case motor ( was on level ground ) the car lunged toward. This was after driving the truck into the shop. Prior to that the truck was off for hours. So the transfer case was fully engaged when I removed the motor causing it to finally free up and lunging forward and then the trans parking pin finally engaged. Guess the active four wheel drive didn’t allow that to happen. Which also made it obvious the motor was stuck in the engaged position.

Before even taking the motor off I can see the same signs of the motor over heating. This time I took pictures and will explain. Below are all the pictures.

First pic is the motor it self. Notice the shiny parts or discolored parts in motor body.
View attachment 15249

Second pic is what it looks like taken apart.
View attachment 15250
Third pic. Is the locking clip on the clutch side of system removed. Use a hook tool comes out pretty easy
View attachment 15251
Fourth pic is what the clutch pack looks like when clip is removed
View attachment 15252
5th pic is the clutch pack with three screws removed.

View attachment 15254
6th pic is the clutch pack assemble. Look at the excessive wear on the clutch plates. That’s 3-400 miles.

View attachment 15255
Pic 7 is the clutch assemble taken apart showing the springs that push the clutch plates etc together before trimming them down.

View attachment 15256
8th pic is after I trim the springs about one coil from what they were. But still above the hugest point of the hole they fit in.

View attachment 15257
9th pic. Everything back together and locking clip re installed Using a socket larger than the center hole I pressed it down.

View attachment 15258
Everything only goes together one way so look at pictures if you want to do this your self.

10-е изображение - это коды в системе, видимые OEM-программным обеспечением.

View attachment 15259
Доехал до дома минут 30 без проблем. Также теперь при первом включении зажигания слышен очень отчетливый звук выключения зажигания (я привык слышать это в других полноприводных автомобилях Chrysler).

Поскольку это вторая проблема с двигателем, я просто собираюсь попробовать это исправить дольше и посмотреть, как она пойдет.

Надеюсь это поможет
And after replacing the motor, or rather, when you cut off part of the spring, did the error return?
 
The whole case needed to be replaced. The clutch pack was binding. Causing the motor to over work trying to engage and disengage
 
The whole case needed to be replaced. The clutch pack was binding. Causing the motor to over work trying to engage and disengage
I understand correctly that you cut the springs, the error did not disappear and appeared again ... as a result, only the transfer case was replaced?
 
Does anyone know the part number for the t case motor for our trucks? Is it:

68402283AA​


Just wanted to verify as having same issues, dealer denied to change out motor so I’m doing it myself.

Cheers
 
Looking for any ideas/suggestions.

I started getting the 4WD overheated performance temporarily reduced message and the truck went into in 2wd and stayed that way. Mind you, this is when I am off road driving it hard. We replaced the motor (not at dealership) which worked for a little bit but went back to 2wd. Dealership said since there’s no CEL or code, and they can’t replicate - there was nothing they can do. I ended up buying a new transfer case which has another new motor and sensor. The fluid was filled per spec. After driving it 200 miles on highway and about 3 laps on a dirt track, message pops up and it’s back in 2WD. Could there be an electrical issue?
 
Gosh this is so fusterating. I’m in the same boat as you TRX_DTX.

Since dealer did not want to replace Transfer Case Motor, I ordered one and will be here tomorrow. So going to try to install that and go from there. If does not resolve, I’m going to cut down on the internal springs like this thread.

If that doesn’t resolve it, I’m:

a). just going to run the shit out of it and dealer will need to replace transfer case and possibly other parts that get damaged, due to their neglect to do literally nothing with 3 visits…this will be fun

b.) sell the truck

This is ridiculous, there is obviously something dramatically wrong and cannot believe the negligence / stupidity of these dealers.

Were you still under warranty and you bought new transfer case out of pocket?
 
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Gosh this is so fusterating. I’m in the same boat as you TRX_DTX.

Since dealer did not want to replace Transfer Case Motor, I ordered one and will be here tomorrow. So going to try to install that and go from there. If does not resolve, I’m going to cut down on the internal springs like this thread.

If that doesn’t resolve it, I’m:

a). just going to run the shit out of it and dealer will need to replace transfer case and possibly other parts that get damaged, due to their neglect to do literally nothing with 3 visits…this will be fun

b.) sell the truck

This is ridiculous, there is obviously something dramatically wrong and cannot believe the negligence / stupidity of these dealers.

Were you still under warranty and you bought new transfer case out of pocket?
I am still under warranty but there are no replacement TC available through CDJR and on national backorder so I found a new one in Miami and paid out of pocket.
Still having issues.

Been going down a rabbit hole today...do you have aftermarket tires?
 
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