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[Tom488]

It's a little different than IGLA, as far as the key programming blocking goes. IGLA connects into the CAN bus in parallel with everything else, and does all its work digitally on the bus itself. It only gets hard-wired in as a more permanent installation, thus giving it the ability to be installed in many different locations (security through obscurity). IGLA would function just the same if it were equipped with it's own STAR connector on its CAN bus wires, and you just plugged it into any available port on the STAR connectors. But that would make it too easy to defeat.

This NoLimitz device actually sits inline with one of the CAN bus devices... that beige/yellow wire, which I'm guessing is the RF Hub module, and more than likely, when it's activated, it just "disconnects" the RF Hub from the CAN bus. And, of course, it's easily deactivated by a simple key sequence (ignition to run, hold left arrow, ignition to off). But, it's not intended as a security device... it's meant to disable speed limiters, traction control, etc. The RF Hub disconnect was just an add-on. Meaning also, if a thief knows about this, or knows it's installed, the simple deactivation sequence above will then give him access to the RF Hub to program a new key.

So... cool that you can disable the speed limiter without hacking the PCM, cool that you can change tire size and not lose the park sense. But as a security device? Meh... half-baked, at best.

As for how it connects, it connects inline to a couple of factory connections, one behind the radio, the other behind the pax kick panel. It will NOT interfere with either a Tazer (which connects in place of the stock SGW module) or the AMP steps (which use the OBD-II connector to get power and CAN bus access)

 

[CoryHerb]

Perfect. Thanks.

 

[Nick797]

Yeah this was never pitched as an alternative to a security device, Just a bunch of new cool features for guys not wanting to tune their vehicle & it also has some other features that may work for other people!

Will the average thief take the time to study these new things? Maybe? Maybe not. Most of the guys breaking into these trucks are low level guys that know how to use one feature on a scan tool because their friend showed them IMO.

 

[Sinful]

They should of just updated the DT. To have a complete other piece for Fixes is crazy imo. Unless the RF block needed a different type of connection I get it but seems like a money grab and a slap in the face to people who already purchased the Tazer

 

[Nick797]

They should of just updated the DT. To have a complete other piece for Fixes is crazy imo. Unless the RF block needed a different type of connection I get it but seems like a money grab and a slap in the face to people who already purchased the Tazer

I don't think that they would of been able to accomplish that with the Tazer otherwise. I'm sure they would of implemented it in an update if so! Plus in my experience alot of end users have some trouble getting comfortable with engaging in setting up the tazer or navigating through the menu..So for some guys an almost one and done might work a little better.

 

[Air’d outSRT]

It's a little different than IGLA, as far as the key programming blocking goes. IGLA connects into the CAN bus in parallel with everything else, and does all its work digitally on the bus itself. It only gets hard-wired in as a more permanent installation, thus giving it the ability to be installed in many different locations (security through obscurity). IGLA would function just the same if it were equipped with it's own STAR connector on its CAN bus wires, and you just plugged it into any available port on the STAR connectors. But that would make it too easy to defeat.

This NoLimitz device actually sits inline with one of the CAN bus devices... that beige/yellow wire, which I'm guessing is the RF Hub module, and more than likely, when it's activated, it just "disconnects" the RF Hub from the CAN bus. And, of course, it's easily deactivated by a simple key sequence (ignition to run, hold left arrow, ignition to off). But, it's not intended as a security device... it's meant to disable speed limiters, traction control, etc. The RF Hub disconnect was just an add-on. Meaning also, if a thief knows about this, or knows it's installed, the simple deactivation sequence above will then give him access to the RF Hub to program a new key.

So... cool that you can disable the speed limiter without hacking the PCM, cool that you can change tire size and not lose the park sense. But as a security device? Meh... half-baked, at best.

As for how it connects, it connects inline to a couple of factory connections, one behind the radio, the other behind the pax kick panel. It will NOT interfere with either a Tazer (which connects in place of the stock SGW module) or the AMP steps (which use the OBD-II connector to get power and CAN bus access)

Rf hub cans are blue and yellow. If you remove that circuit by disconnecting it then your ignition would never turn on. Its no different than a tazer frying your rf hub. Your oem key wouldn’t work and thus your ignition wouldn’t turn on.

 

[Tom488]

Rf hub cans are blue and yellow. If you remove that circuit by disconnecting it then your ignition would never turn on. Its no different than a tazer frying your rf hub. Your oem key wouldn’t work and thus your ignition wouldn’t turn on.

Ah, ok. Yeah, I should have looked at the wiring diagram before opening my yap

The beige/yellow connector goes to the PCM - so they're intercepting messages to/from the PCM and modifying... that's how they're eliminating the speed limiter and altering the tire size (also why they couldn't just do this w/ a Tazer update... they need to physically intercept and modify CAN messages to/from the PCM). So the RF Hub blocking is being done, probably very similar to the way IGLA does it... either overriding a particular message, or just jamming the entire CAN bus for a moment if it sees an attempt to retrieve the PIN.

 

[Air’d outSRT]

Ah, ok. Yeah, I should have looked at the wiring diagram before opening my yap

The beige/yellow connector goes to the PCM - so they're intercepting messages to/from the PCM and modifying... that's how they're eliminating the speed limiter and altering the tire size (also why they couldn't just do this w/ a Tazer update... they need to physically intercept and modify CAN messages to/from the PCM). So the RF Hub blocking is being done, probably very similar to the way IGLA does it... either overriding a particular message, or just jamming the entire CAN bus for a moment if it sees an attempt to retrieve the PIN.

When I get bored I might buy one and look. Not even on my list of 1,000 things to do though. Too many bugs with it already.

 

[HDMLNIUM]

Just got mine installed today. It works for sure as far as removing the speed limiter. I did a quick blast down the turnpike spur got her up to 133 mph before I had to lift. I was running my 37x13.5’s for this run. I’m putting my stock wheels and tires back on this afternoon. Planning on going to New England DRAGWAY this Wednesday to test out the 1/4 mile again. Last year I ran a 12.4 at 109 but now I have about 11k miles on her to see if it will run any quicker. I barely got the break in miles on it last year when I brought it to the track. Maybe 12.3’s this year.
Bill

 

[HDMLNIUM]

Ok back after a quick blast with the factory wheels and tires. Felt better for sure but still ran out of room. She was still pulling hard when I had to let off and start applying the brakes at 144 mph. I think if I had enough room without any traffic it would do about 160ish I would guess. Much better than the wimpy 118 from the factory. I know it’s because the factory tires have a speed rating of 118 and thats for safety. But it sure felt good and maybe I’ll have to go back out tonight when there isn’t as much traffic on the road.
Bill

 

[Engine45]

Ok back after a quick blast with the factory wheels and tires. Felt better for sure but still ran out of room. She was still pulling hard when I had to let off and start applying the brakes at 144 mph. I think if I had enough room without any traffic it would do about 160ish I would guess. Much better than the wimpy 118 from the factory. I know it’s because the factory tires have a speed rating of 118 and thats for safety. But it sure felt good and maybe I’ll have to go back out tonight when there isn’t as much traffic on the road.
BillView attachment 134922

Did you have to trim the connectors like in the install instructions?

 

[HDMLNIUM]

Did you have to trim the connectors like in the install instructions?

Yes and it was very easy. Just used my trusty Benchmade pocket knife and no issues whatsoever.
Bill