NEED HELP GETTING POWER INTO THE BED

FULLTHROTTLERICK

| NO FEAR |
2x TRX of the Month 🏆
2x Video of the Month 🏆
Joined
Jul 6, 2022
Messages
3,756
Gallery
696
Reaction score
4,094
Location
Jacksonville
Got an electric cooler for the truckbed for our next out of state trip and need some ideas for getting power back there. LAST RESORT = run the cooler charging cable through the back window (shut the window onto the cable), through the front window of the Flated topper, and connect to the cooler.

I've got A LOT of things wired up so i'm not sure the best way to do it. I think I've already used all the add-a-fuse locations in the fuse box (F11 and F44) for my rock lights, clearance lights, hood lights on w/ignition, 2ndary condenser fan, etc. I've definitely used all the AUX switches (led bars/pods + chase lights + ditch lights + interchiller).

Ideal setup = ignition-on power. Specs show 90w power but I've seen 95w+ so definitely min. of 10A fused location. I def dont want to have a separate switch to manually turn on/off every time i crank the truck.

Any ideas guys??! I think there may be 1 more add-a-fuse location I can tap into (fuse #60 which is 20A). Anyone use that one yet?? Even then, would i just strip back the cooler power cable and connect hot to hot and ground to ground and cross my fingers for the best lolol?!
 
Or maybe get something like this, chop the alligators off and wire those directly to ground & to the add-a-fuse coming out of the fuse box??

Screenshot 2024-06-08 at 10.36.23 PM.png
 
Are you just looking for a temporary setup? Will something like this work? (Not sure if you're pulling a trailer or not)

 
Could you just use a trailer light adapter that gives 12v power? I've seen some people use that temporarily

Best option would be to wire direct to battery with an inline fuse and relay. Tie the relay to anything that has ignition on power already. Relay will only ignite with ignition on and you get all the benefits of full battery power
 
Could you just use a trailer light adapter that gives 12v power? I've seen some people use that temporarily

Best option would be to wire direct to battery with an inline fuse and relay. Tie the relay to anything that has ignition on power already. Relay will only ignite with ignition on and you get all the benefits of full battery power
the relay is always what loses me lol. I literally have wired about 100 things in my life and never used a relay haha. My chiller even came with one and i kaboshed it haha
 
Are you just looking for a temporary setup? Will something like this work? (Not sure if you're pulling a trailer or not)

that's not a bad idea and def better than running through the back window lol. Would still have a wire running up the tailgate and into the bed though (unless I went under the bed and back in from the front?
 
Anyone have good way to get a cable into the bed from the floor somewhere (via a drain/etc) that doesnt require drilling??
 
Isn't there wiring already for trailer usage? If so there's a constant 12 Volt source.

And a quality fridge/freezer such as an Engle or ARB can be left running overnight without any issues. Learned that when I had one in my Jeep for longer outings.
 
Anyone have good way to get a cable into the bed from the floor somewhere (via a drain/etc) that doesnt require drilling??
Both the front and back stake pockets have factory holes to run wires through. Drop a line through the hole in the bed, grab the line underneath, tape the wires to it and pull it through the top again. Back hole will be perfect if your tapping the trailer harness.
IMG_1876.jpeg

IMG_1875.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1874.jpeg
    IMG_1874.jpeg
    106.6 KB · Views: 10
Both the front and back stake pockets have factory holes to run wires through. Drop a line through the hole in the bed, grab the line underneath, tape the wires to it and pull it through the top again. Back hole will be perfect if your tapping the trailer harness.View attachment 131010
View attachment 131011
Lemme go take a look to see if i can find these. Remember i have the decked/etc so things may not be so easy on my end
 
Isn't there wiring already for trailer usage? If so there's a constant 12 Volt source.

And a quality fridge/freezer such as an Engle or ARB can be left running overnight without any issues. Learned that when I had one in my Jeep for longer outings.
Yea we've got one that wont let the battery drop below a certain voltage but i dont trust that long-term. I'll wake up one day and be stranded b/c the cooler voltage protection feature had a glitch lolol.

Would prefer an ignition-on power source for that reason.
 
Yea we've got one that wont let the battery drop below a certain voltage but i dont trust that long-term. I'll wake up one day and be stranded b/c the cooler voltage protection feature had a glitch lolol.

Would prefer an ignition-on power source for that reason.
If so, unplug it or turn it off during the night.

I think it would suck to have to have the ignition on to run the cooler...not to mention that'll it'll suck the battery down (I hate idling engines).
 
If so, unplug it or turn it off during the night.

I think it would suck to have to have the ignition on to run the cooler...not to mention that'll it'll suck the battery down (I hate idling engines).
So our cooler has the ability to run off of batteries too so the plan is run cooler off the truck when we’re driving around and cruising the trails and then when we stop to take a break or go to sleep, we shut the truck off and the cooler switches to battery only mode.

And then the next morning the truck charges the cooler batteries back up while it runs the cooler throughout the day.
 
So our cooler has the ability to run off of batteries too so the plan is run cooler off the truck when we’re driving around and cruising the trails and then when we stop to take a break or go to sleep, we shut the truck off and the cooler switches to battery only mode.

And then the next morning the truck charges the cooler batteries back up while it runs the cooler throughout the day.
If you’re going full overland, might be worth investing in another battery in the bed to run accessories. Charge while the trucks running, then have a switch so it’s independently drawing when truck is off
 
  • Like
Reactions: Two
If you’re going full overland, might be worth investing in another battery in the bed to run accessories. Charge while the trucks running, then have a switch so it’s independently drawing when truck is off
Yea that would be ideal but not trying to go full overland and dont want a battery flopping around back there haha.
 
@OnTheReel There’s a rubber grommet on the front-side of the bed (in btwn cab & bed). Is this where uve run a wire through?

My front stake pockets are connected to the plastic trim as all one piece. Prolly rather keep em that way if possible.
 
@OnTheReel There’s a rubber grommet on the front-side of the bed (in btwn cab & bed). Is this where uve run a wire through?
I initially ran my Rambar light harness through there but it’s really tight and you’d still have to actually get the wire into the bed.

If you have access to the big rubber plug at the front of the bed (shown removed in this photo of a Rambar install), it would be a straight shot down to the frame to run wires. You won’t have to cut out the bed rail caps to do it.
IMG_1878.jpeg
 
Back
Top