GoRhino Sportbar 2.0 with Power Actuated Lightbar

JBTRXNJ

‘22 TRX
TRX of the Month 🏆
Joined
Apr 20, 2022
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Location
New Jersey
Current Ride
2022 Diamond Black TRX
Current Ride #2
2022 Wrangler Rubicon 4xe
So finally got around to installing the lightbar in my GoRhino Sportbar.

My hopes were dashed at times along the way, but I’ll try to write this up for everyone’s benefit.

Firstly, I’m very happy that I decided to take the bar off my truck to do the install… would have been a disaster in the end if I hadn’t.

IMG_1468.jpeg


I attempted to upgrade the actuator based on prior feedback on the forum. Firstly, the replacement actuator needed to be drilled out to accommodate the bolts… not a big deal, but something of an omen for issues further in the build.

I mounted the actuator and tested it… well either the actuator was slightly too long, or there was something off with my sport bar, because the arm could not fully extend, and causing the motor to run constantly trying to achieve full extension rather than self terminating. So back to the actuator supplied by GoRhino… which works as intended, but is slow relative to the replacement actuator.

Then began mounting the lights. Firstly it’s very difficult to mount six 6” lights with even spacing based on the hole layout from GoRhino. I had to get creative with spacing in order to maintain symmetry in the light. This is not a big deal unless you have OCD. While all six lights are not equidistant from each other, I was able to maintain consistent spacing at each position on the left and right sides… so while a bit wider gap at the center, and different gap spacing in the other positions, I was able to achieve symmetry across the bar, so it doesn’t look terrible.



Secondly, the light bar sits very low in the Sportbar… I had to use 1/2 inch steel spacers for the carriage bolts to mount the Rigid 360s, and even still feel like they are sitting a bit low. Problem with going much higher with spacers is there is not enough clearance for the 360s to fold back with a 3/4” spacer. A 5/8 spacer might work, but I couldn’t find one at the hardware store… yes we are talking 1/8 of an inch, but it’s the difference between having the lights rub or not.

IMG_1470.jpeg


Finally, be prepared to drill out some holes. 2/3 of the holes had issues with powdercoat being too thick.

Finally the Chase light slots in the back are not conducive to actually mounting lights… but I’ve been drilling this out already, so a little more customization to make it work.

The bar is well designed for wire hiding, and plenty of spots for zip ties…

In the end, it took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I think it turned out reasonably well in the end.

70553163867__B61FBE2B-519A-4ACD-BCE5-A6107ABE4D17.jpeg


I’ve got a day worth of wiring to do now to get everything connected (this and other lights). I’ll post some more once it’s all connected to the truck.
 
@JNTRXNJ did Go Rhino say it was ok to drill your own holes? I was told that drilling will invalidate the warrantee. As a word of warning, the metal those bars are made of is very high carbon and rusts very easily. It looks like you did a really nice instal job!
So finally got around to installing the lightbar in my GoRhino Sportbar.

My hopes were dashed at times along the way, but I’ll try to write this up for everyone’s benefit.

Firstly, I’m very happy that I decided to take the bar off my truck to do the install… would have been a disaster in the end if I hadn’t.

View attachment 97949

I attempted to upgrade the actuator based on prior feedback on the forum. Firstly, the replacement actuator needed to be drilled out to accommodate the bolts… not a big deal, but something of an omen for issues further in the build.

I mounted the actuator and tested it… well either the actuator was slightly too long, or there was something off with my sport bar, because the arm could not fully extend, and causing the motor to run constantly trying to achieve full extension rather than self terminating. So back to the actuator supplied by GoRhino… which works as intended, but is slow relative to the replacement actuator.

Then began mounting the lights. Firstly it’s very difficult to mount six 6” lights with even spacing based on the hole layout from GoRhino. I had to get creative with spacing in order to maintain symmetry in the light. This is not a big deal unless you have OCD. While all six lights are not equidistant from each other, I was able to maintain consistent spacing at each position on the left and right sides… so while a bit wider gap at the center, and different gap spacing in the other positions, I was able to achieve symmetry across the bar, so it doesn’t look terrible.



Secondly, the light bar sits very low in the Sportbar… I had to use 1/2 inch steel spacers for the carriage bolts to mount the Rigid 360s, and even still feel like they are sitting a bit low. Problem with going much higher with spacers is there is not enough clearance for the 360s to fold back with a 3/4” spacer. A 5/8 spacer might work, but I couldn’t find one at the hardware store… yes we are talking 1/8 of an inch, but it’s the difference between having the lights rub or not.

View attachment 97950

Finally, be prepared to drill out some holes. 2/3 of the holes had issues with powdercoat being too thick.

Finally the Chase light slots in the back are not conducive to actually mounting lights… but I’ve been drilling this out already, so a little more customization to make it work.

The bar is well designed for wire hiding, and plenty of spots for zip ties…

In the end, it took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I think it turned out reasonably well in the end.

View attachment 97952

I’ve got a day worth of wiring to do now to get everything connected (this and other lights). I’ll post some more once it’s all connected to the truck.
 
@JNTRXNJ did Go Rhino say it was ok to drill your own holes? I was told that drilling will invalidate the warrantee. As a word of warning, the metal those bars are made of is very high carbon and rusts very easily. It looks like you did a really nice instal job!
Couldn’t exactly avoid it. With that said, I hit all my holes with anti rust paint.
 
Couldn’t exactly avoid it. With that said, I hit all my holes with anti rust paint.
That is a very good idea! Honestly!! You really did a nice job! Much MUCH better than the people who destroyed my truck installing a used/ damaged one. The aftermath is horrific.
 
That is a very good idea! Honestly!! You really did a nice job! Much MUCH better than the people who destroyed my truck installing a used/ damaged one. The aftermath is horrific.
Thank you. I should have also stated, don’t install these things by yourself… they weigh a ton… my low back is not a happy camper.
 
So finally got around to installing the lightbar in my GoRhino Sportbar.

My hopes were dashed at times along the way, but I’ll try to write this up for everyone’s benefit.

Firstly, I’m very happy that I decided to take the bar off my truck to do the install… would have been a disaster in the end if I hadn’t.

View attachment 97949

I attempted to upgrade the actuator based on prior feedback on the forum. Firstly, the replacement actuator needed to be drilled out to accommodate the bolts… not a big deal, but something of an omen for issues further in the build.

I mounted the actuator and tested it… well either the actuator was slightly too long, or there was something off with my sport bar, because the arm could not fully extend, and causing the motor to run constantly trying to achieve full extension rather than self terminating. So back to the actuator supplied by GoRhino… which works as intended, but is slow relative to the replacement actuator.

Then began mounting the lights. Firstly it’s very difficult to mount six 6” lights with even spacing based on the hole layout from GoRhino. I had to get creative with spacing in order to maintain symmetry in the light. This is not a big deal unless you have OCD. While all six lights are not equidistant from each other, I was able to maintain consistent spacing at each position on the left and right sides… so while a bit wider gap at the center, and different gap spacing in the other positions, I was able to achieve symmetry across the bar, so it doesn’t look terrible.



Secondly, the light bar sits very low in the Sportbar… I had to use 1/2 inch steel spacers for the carriage bolts to mount the Rigid 360s, and even still feel like they are sitting a bit low. Problem with going much higher with spacers is there is not enough clearance for the 360s to fold back with a 3/4” spacer. A 5/8 spacer might work, but I couldn’t find one at the hardware store… yes we are talking 1/8 of an inch, but it’s the difference between having the lights rub or not.

View attachment 97950

Finally, be prepared to drill out some holes. 2/3 of the holes had issues with powdercoat being too thick.

Finally the Chase light slots in the back are not conducive to actually mounting lights… but I’ve been drilling this out already, so a little more customization to make it work.

The bar is well designed for wire hiding, and plenty of spots for zip ties…

In the end, it took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I think it turned out reasonably well in the end.

View attachment 97952

I’ve got a day worth of wiring to do now to get everything connected (this and other lights). I’ll post some more once it’s all connected to the truck.
Dude - big time “bravery points” from me on putting the bar on an interior (possibly dinning area) table - my wife would have my balls…🥴

Then I’d be sleeping in my TRX which could make it worth it 🧐

On the serious side - Great write up 👍🏻
 
That came out really good!
 
So finally got around to installing the lightbar in my GoRhino Sportbar.

My hopes were dashed at times along the way, but I’ll try to write this up for everyone’s benefit.

Firstly, I’m very happy that I decided to take the bar off my truck to do the install… would have been a disaster in the end if I hadn’t.

View attachment 97949

I attempted to upgrade the actuator based on prior feedback on the forum. Firstly, the replacement actuator needed to be drilled out to accommodate the bolts… not a big deal, but something of an omen for issues further in the build.

I mounted the actuator and tested it… well either the actuator was slightly too long, or there was something off with my sport bar, because the arm could not fully extend, and causing the motor to run constantly trying to achieve full extension rather than self terminating. So back to the actuator supplied by GoRhino… which works as intended, but is slow relative to the replacement actuator.

Then began mounting the lights. Firstly it’s very difficult to mount six 6” lights with even spacing based on the hole layout from GoRhino. I had to get creative with spacing in order to maintain symmetry in the light. This is not a big deal unless you have OCD. While all six lights are not equidistant from each other, I was able to maintain consistent spacing at each position on the left and right sides… so while a bit wider gap at the center, and different gap spacing in the other positions, I was able to achieve symmetry across the bar, so it doesn’t look terrible.



Secondly, the light bar sits very low in the Sportbar… I had to use 1/2 inch steel spacers for the carriage bolts to mount the Rigid 360s, and even still feel like they are sitting a bit low. Problem with going much higher with spacers is there is not enough clearance for the 360s to fold back with a 3/4” spacer. A 5/8 spacer might work, but I couldn’t find one at the hardware store… yes we are talking 1/8 of an inch, but it’s the difference between having the lights rub or not.

View attachment 97950

Finally, be prepared to drill out some holes. 2/3 of the holes had issues with powdercoat being too thick.

Finally the Chase light slots in the back are not conducive to actually mounting lights… but I’ve been drilling this out already, so a little more customization to make it work.

The bar is well designed for wire hiding, and plenty of spots for zip ties…

In the end, it took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I think it turned out reasonably well in the end.

View attachment 97952

I’ve got a day worth of wiring to do now to get everything connected (this and other lights). I’ll post some more once it’s all connected to the truck.
Looks great! What lights are you running on the bar? Been trying to figure out what to install on mine.
 
So finally got around to installing the lightbar in my GoRhino Sportbar.

My hopes were dashed at times along the way, but I’ll try to write this up for everyone’s benefit.

Firstly, I’m very happy that I decided to take the bar off my truck to do the install… would have been a disaster in the end if I hadn’t.

View attachment 97949

I attempted to upgrade the actuator based on prior feedback on the forum. Firstly, the replacement actuator needed to be drilled out to accommodate the bolts… not a big deal, but something of an omen for issues further in the build.

I mounted the actuator and tested it… well either the actuator was slightly too long, or there was something off with my sport bar, because the arm could not fully extend, and causing the motor to run constantly trying to achieve full extension rather than self terminating. So back to the actuator supplied by GoRhino… which works as intended, but is slow relative to the replacement actuator.

Then began mounting the lights. Firstly it’s very difficult to mount six 6” lights with even spacing based on the hole layout from GoRhino. I had to get creative with spacing in order to maintain symmetry in the light. This is not a big deal unless you have OCD. While all six lights are not equidistant from each other, I was able to maintain consistent spacing at each position on the left and right sides… so while a bit wider gap at the center, and different gap spacing in the other positions, I was able to achieve symmetry across the bar, so it doesn’t look terrible.



Secondly, the light bar sits very low in the Sportbar… I had to use 1/2 inch steel spacers for the carriage bolts to mount the Rigid 360s, and even still feel like they are sitting a bit low. Problem with going much higher with spacers is there is not enough clearance for the 360s to fold back with a 3/4” spacer. A 5/8 spacer might work, but I couldn’t find one at the hardware store… yes we are talking 1/8 of an inch, but it’s the difference between having the lights rub or not.

View attachment 97950

Finally, be prepared to drill out some holes. 2/3 of the holes had issues with powdercoat being too thick.

Finally the Chase light slots in the back are not conducive to actually mounting lights… but I’ve been drilling this out already, so a little more customization to make it work.

The bar is well designed for wire hiding, and plenty of spots for zip ties…

In the end, it took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I think it turned out reasonably well in the end.

View attachment 97952

I’ve got a day worth of wiring to do now to get everything connected (this and other lights). I’ll post some more once it’s all connected to the truck.
Nice! Any video of it in action? Wonder what it will take to use the new actuator
 
Nice! Any video of it in action? Wonder what it will take to use the new actuator
Video once it’s all wired up (to the truck), hopefully this weekend. But here’s a little bit on the wiring.

I somewhat over engineered this thing, but the idea was to leverage Aux 5 and Aux 6 (both 10amp) so I’m using three SPDT and one DPDT relays.

IMG_1188.jpeg
IMG_1190.jpeg
IMG_1176.jpeg
IMG_1189.jpeg
IMG_1187.jpeg
IMG_1360.jpeg


I will draw up the wiring diagrams for anyone interested… but the idea here…

Power from the battery to the bed. Ground to the frame under the bed. (This will all be located above the spare tire holder bracket under the bed)

I used True Mods Waterproof Relay Box and Two of their Waterproof Power Distribution Boxes.

Totally overkill, but considering I was either mounting in the bed to one of my Molle Panels (this still may be the case…), or under the bed I wanted to make sure it looked clean and was totally waterproof. I mounted the boxes to a HDPE cutting board of all things.

Pressing Aux 6 triggers the first 5 pin Relay, which in turn triggers both a 4 pin Relay which turns on the amber backlights and the DPDT relay (forward polarity) which operates the actuator, lifting the lights. When Aux five is turned off, the backlights turn off, and the reverse polarity on the DPDT is triggered, retracting the lights. Because the actuator automatically turns off when it is fully extended and/or fully retracted, it’s not a big deal that there is constant power going to it in either scenario.

Aux 5 triggers a 4 pin relay which operates the main lights (6x Rigid 360 6”), and preserves the higher current switches for other things.

In retrospect I could have used Aux 4 and no relay, and Aux 5 for the Chase Lights (Baja LP4s) but using two switches that are next to each other also was desirable.

The Chase lights, which I tinted with Dark Red Film from Luxe Auto Concepts, will have their backlights connected to my trailer tap harness to the tail light pin, and main light to Aux 4.

Parts List:

- GoRhino Sport Bar 2.0 with Power Actuated Light Bar
- 6x Rigid 360 6” Pods with Amber Backlight (4X Spot Beam 2X Driving Beam)
- Custom Powdercoat Rigid Brackets
- 1/2 Inch Steel Spacers (https://a.co/d/2zY1XLh)
- True Mods Relay Box (https://a.co/d/5e4K0fB)
- 2x True Mods Distribution Box (https://a.co/d/7MZcKZn)
- OONO DPDT Actuator Relay (https://a.co/d/eqZO5aw)
- 2X Baja Designs LP4 Pro Pods
- Luxe Auto Concepts Dark Red Vinyl Tint
 
Dude - big time “bravery points” from me on putting the bar on an interior (possibly dinning area) table - my wife would have my balls…🥴

Then I’d be sleeping in my TRX which could make it worth it 🧐

On the serious side - Great write up 👍🏻
I like the fish tank in the background too, for an added difficulty factor! 🙌
 
I like the fish tank in the background too, for an added difficulty factor! 🙌
The stupid fish… wife decided to appease the kids desire to bring my animals into the house, they could have fish in their room… guess who gets to add fish tank cleaning to my “Honey do list”?
 
The stupid fish… wife decided to appease the kids desire to bring my animals into the house, they could have fish in their room… guess who gets to add fish tank cleaning to my “Honey do list”?
Builds character!! Lol
 
So finally got around to installing the lightbar in my GoRhino Sportbar.

My hopes were dashed at times along the way, but I’ll try to write this up for everyone’s benefit.

Firstly, I’m very happy that I decided to take the bar off my truck to do the install… would have been a disaster in the end if I hadn’t.

View attachment 97949

I attempted to upgrade the actuator based on prior feedback on the forum. Firstly, the replacement actuator needed to be drilled out to accommodate the bolts… not a big deal, but something of an omen for issues further in the build.

I mounted the actuator and tested it… well either the actuator was slightly too long, or there was something off with my sport bar, because the arm could not fully extend, and causing the motor to run constantly trying to achieve full extension rather than self terminating. So back to the actuator supplied by GoRhino… which works as intended, but is slow relative to the replacement actuator.

Then began mounting the lights. Firstly it’s very difficult to mount six 6” lights with even spacing based on the hole layout from GoRhino. I had to get creative with spacing in order to maintain symmetry in the light. This is not a big deal unless you have OCD. While all six lights are not equidistant from each other, I was able to maintain consistent spacing at each position on the left and right sides… so while a bit wider gap at the center, and different gap spacing in the other positions, I was able to achieve symmetry across the bar, so it doesn’t look terrible.



Secondly, the light bar sits very low in the Sportbar… I had to use 1/2 inch steel spacers for the carriage bolts to mount the Rigid 360s, and even still feel like they are sitting a bit low. Problem with going much higher with spacers is there is not enough clearance for the 360s to fold back with a 3/4” spacer. A 5/8 spacer might work, but I couldn’t find one at the hardware store… yes we are talking 1/8 of an inch, but it’s the difference between having the lights rub or not.

View attachment 97950

Finally, be prepared to drill out some holes. 2/3 of the holes had issues with powdercoat being too thick.

Finally the Chase light slots in the back are not conducive to actually mounting lights… but I’ve been drilling this out already, so a little more customization to make it work.

The bar is well designed for wire hiding, and plenty of spots for zip ties…

In the end, it took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I think it turned out reasonably well in the end.

View attachment 97952

I’ve got a day worth of wiring to do now to get everything connected (this and other lights). I’ll post some more once it’s all connected to the truck.
Looks awesome, great job. That wiring looks way too complicated for me to even attempt.
 
Last edited:
Looks awesome, great job. That wiring looks way too complicated for me to even attempt.
It’s total overkill… 😅
 

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