Effective, Inexpensive, Simple Security Device

Have you checked yours recently to see if it is still blocking the signal? I bought the Mission Darkness Faraday bags from Amazon and they worked at first not letting me start the Truck. It would say FOB not found if the KeyFob was inside the bag. Now 30 days later it no longer blocks the signal. Anyone else notice if theirs stopped working?
Checked this weekend, still working. I'm going to keep an eye on it though. I thought it was effective because of the material the bag is made from. If it stops working, that points to something else, correct? I'm trying to think of why this would stop working.
 
Checked this weekend, still working. I'm going to keep an eye on it though. I thought it was effective because of the material the bag is made from. If it stops working, that points to something else, correct? I'm trying to think of why this would stop working.
About security, I found a place on VanDyke called Civic Music in Utica Mi, they install Ravelco which takes two weeks to get the kit and they do the installs. Not inexpensive but maybe worth it.
 
About security, I found a place on VanDyke called Civic Music in Utica Mi, they install Ravelco which takes two weeks to get the kit and they do the installs. Not inexpensive but maybe worth it.
Thanks for the notice on that! I know the place, and live minutes away.
 
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The Addshocksensor.com is a 4 wire install. 1 ground, 1 fuse tap, 1 always hot and 1 trigger wire. Super easy from the looks of the install from the video the guy sent me. Possibly take less than 30 mins. Works with factory fob. Sounds horn at the slightest vibration or of the door is opened without being unlocked.
Do you have a link to the video install?
 
In the next few days, I'm going to explore another idea I had... revolves around the "pop the transmission disconnect and push the vehicle out of the driveway/parking spot" videos I've watched. It should be possible to re-wire the electric parking brake module to only receive power once the vehicle is running (by switching a relay from the ASD relay output). I'll feed fuse #42 from this relay instead of the battery. So, when you want the extra roll-away protection, you'll park, set the parking brake, THEN turn the truck off. Unless the engine is started, you can't disengage the parking brake - good luck pushing a 6,400lb truck with the rear brakes locked. To disengage, you'll have to start the truck first, then you can release the parking brake.
 
In the next few days, I'm going to explore another idea I had... revolves around the "pop the transmission disconnect and push the vehicle out of the driveway/parking spot" videos I've watched. It should be possible to re-wire the electric parking brake module to only receive power once the vehicle is running (by switching a relay from the ASD relay output). I'll feed fuse #42 from this relay instead of the battery. So, when you want the extra roll-away protection, you'll park, set the parking brake, THEN turn the truck off. Unless the engine is started, you can't disengage the parking brake - good luck pushing a 6,400lb truck with the rear brakes locked. To disengage, you'll have to start the truck first, then you can release the parking brake.
Following and interested. Can’t wait to hear results along with a how to wrote up.
 
Have some of y'all been using your Mobilistics relay reguarly for a few weeks now? I don't keep mine installed and I wanted to see if there had been any problems. Maybe they only function 25 times and then they detonate and set fire to your truck or something.
 
Have some of y'all been using your Mobilistics relay reguarly for a few weeks now? I don't keep mine installed and I wanted to see if there had been any problems. Maybe they only function 25 times and then they detonate and set fire to your truck or something.
Damn let’s hope not!
 
Have some of y'all been using your Mobilistics relay reguarly for a few weeks now? I don't keep mine installed and I wanted to see if there had been any problems. Maybe they only function 25 times and then they detonate and set fire to your truck or something.
Damn, I hope not. I followed @Tom488's guidance and swapped the relay cover with the factory one to "camouflage" it. I've only had it installed for 4 days, but it's been working like a champ so far. My only gripe is that the range on the Mobilistics fob is so short. I'd love to better retain remote start capability with a Mobilistics fob that had similar range to the Ram factory fob.
 
Damn, I hope not. I followed @Tom488's guidance and swapped the relay cover with the factory one to "camouflage" it. I've only had it installed for 4 days, but it's been working like a champ so far. My only gripe is that the range on the Mobilistics fob is so short. I'd love to better retain remote start capability with a Mobilistics fob that had similar range to the Ram factory fob.
How far is the distance would you say? I got mine the other day I just don’t have a truck to put it on yet.
 
How far is the distance would you say? I got mine the other day I just don’t have a truck to put it on yet.
You have to be sitting in the drivers seat or standing next to the drivers door for the Mobilistics fob to work properly. I would say even sitting in the back seat of the truck is "too far away" for it to work consistently.
 
Damn, I hope not. I followed @Tom488's guidance and swapped the relay cover with the factory one to "camouflage" it. I've only had it installed for 4 days, but it's been working like a champ so far. My only gripe is that the range on the Mobilistics fob is so short. I'd love to better retain remote start capability with a Mobilistics fob that had similar range to the Ram factory fob.
This is my experience as well.
 
You have to be sitting in the drivers seat or standing next to the drivers door for the Mobilistics fob to work properly. I would say even sitting in the back seat of the truck is "too far away" for it to work consistently.
Didn't realize there were more posts. I've tried from numerous distances and it only seems to work like this. It gets tricky, because too many attempts triggers the Remote Start Disable and I have to start over, but I seem to have to be very close to get it to work.
 
You have to be sitting in the drivers seat or standing next to the drivers door for the Mobilistics fob to work properly. I would say even sitting in the back seat of the truck is "too far away" for it to work consistently.
Well that sucks. Kinda takes the remote start argument away from Ravel
You have to be sitting in the drivers seat or standing next to the drivers door for the Mobilistics fob to work properly. I would say even sitting in the back seat of the truck is "too far away" for it to work consistently.
well this sucks. Kinda takes the remote start argument away from comparing it to the Ravelco, right?
 
Well that sucks. Kinda takes the remote start argument away from Ravel

well this sucks. Kinda takes the remote start argument away from comparing it to the Ravelco, right?
I would say for all practical purposes, the Mobilistics relay removes the convenience of remote start. But, unlike the Ravelco, I don't have an (IMO) ugly round receptacle I've got to "plug a key" into every time I want to start the truck. I think the Mobilistics fob is easier to carry in the front pocket than the Ravelco "key" and the install was way quicker and easier, and without the "plug" sticking out of my dash. Of course, if a thief knew I had the relay (and which one it was) versus knowing I had the Ravelco, the Ravelco is obviously more difficult to circumvent.
 
No truck to test but hoping for testing this weekend.

Which position are folks running in relay #1 or #2?

Is there a way to amp the signal from the remote?
 
No truck to test but hoping for testing this weekend.

Which position are folks running in relay #1 or #2?

Is there a way to amp the signal from the remote?
I'm running it in relay #2 to keep from having any battery draw at all when not starting the motor. Like I said, works as advertised so far. If anyone figures out how to retrofit the fob into something with more range, please let the group know.
 
I'm running it in relay #2 to keep from having any battery draw at all when not starting the motor. Like I said, works as advertised so far. If anyone figures out how to retrofit the fob into something with more range, please let the group know.
Thanks. Or if we can add a universal fob with more range.
 
Damn, I hope not. I followed @Tom488's guidance and swapped the relay cover with the factory one to "camouflage" it. I've only had it installed for 4 days, but it's been working like a champ so far. My only gripe is that the range on the Mobilistics fob is so short. I'd love to better retain remote start capability with a Mobilistics fob that had similar range to the Ram factory fob.
Me, too - had it in for a few weeks now - it's been just fine. No fires or anything :)

This may be a stupid idea, and I suggest you double-check that no one is around to witness this before trying it, but back in "the day" with limited-range transmitters on vehicle alarms, I used to stick the transmitter under my chin, which would more than double the effective range of the transmitter. Something about using your skull as an RF amplifier.
 

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