Best Oil Additive?

PLATINUM12

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I know these engines are suitable for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40, but I've always had good success with Lucas oil additives in other vehicles. In my Charger 392 I use Lucas Full Synthetic, and I was wondering if this would be good to use in this engine, or if Lucas Low Viscosity additive would be better? I like the fact they are super slick and leave a coating to reduce dry startups, and they also help extend engine oil life.

Or, someone please explain why neither would offer any benefits. Thanks.
 
Personally, I use straight MOA in the crankcase.....but only every other oil change.
Distilled water works just as good as that WAY TOO expensive oil stuff!
 
IMO, there’s no reason to play chemist with extra additives unless there’s some kind of underlying engine issue you’re attempting to “fix” with a bottle (stuck rings, sludge).

In any other scenario, there is a risk that dumping random additional additives in an oil could actually have a paradoxical effect. Additives don’t always interact positively with other additives, and more isn’t always better. ZDDP and the dispersant package is a simple example of a chemistry that needs to be “just right” to allow the zinc to form the anti-wear layer, while keeping the soot and other particles in suspension. If that balance is thrown off, the phosphate can be stripped from the base metal, rendering all of the zinc useless, and actually increasing wear.

The money is far better spent on using top quality oils, and/or changing them more frequently.
 
Whats MOA?

We use seafoam every oil chg for 100-300 miles before the change
BG MOA, mechanic in a can!
I love to walk the beach and scoop up the sea foam after a storm, so that stuff works like magic in the old crankcase huh??????
 
Oh goodie, a new oil thread, just wait I need to go get my 🍿
head over to the EVO, or Honda forms, they discuss this shit some many times i feel like half the people contributing are actually sales people pushing a certain product. From what i gathered from EVOm.net and civicx.com and civicxi.com is that most additives do very little if anything. I have never used any. I use the following in my EVO: Amsoil Redline 15w-50, and a puralator filter. My concerns with using any additive is that i rather have more oil than less oil with an addidtive in my engine because i can trust the oil to lubricate, because i am assuming you have to use less oil to take up for the volume of additive you would be adding. maybe i am wrong.
 
head over to the EVO, or Honda forms, they discuss this shit some many times i feel like half the people contributing are actually sales people pushing a certain product. From what i gathered from EVOm.net and civicx.com and civicxi.com is that most additives do very little if anything. I have never used any. I use the following in my EVO: Amsoil Redline 15w-50, and a puralator filter. My concerns with using any additive is that i rather have more oil than less oil with an addidtive in my engine because i can trust the oil to lubricate, because i am assuming you have to use less oil to take up for the volume of additive you would be adding. maybe i am wrong.
nah. With Seafoam you add 1oz per quart of oil. You only add seafoam right b4 your oil change (within 1-300 miles of changing your oil). So only at the tail end of your oil change interval you might have a bit extra "fluid" in your crankcase. Honestly though, when you check your dipstick at 4-6k miles (right b4 oil change), it's probably a little lower than completely full anyway so it's not like you're flooding your crankcase with tons of extra fluid (or in your hypothetical, not giving your engine the proper amount of oil at the start of the oil change interval).

Cant speak to any other products/additives.
 
I agree that changing your oil more frequently (within reason) and using the best oil/filter combo possible is probably better than changing less frequently and using shitty oil + additives. If you've got the $$ for additives, you've got the $$ to use top notch oil so dont skimp and try to band-aid your shit lol.
 
Run Amsoil!

Dont need to add stuff to good oil.
Its already there.

Seafoam is good way to wash bearings.
Exspecially on a boosted engine.

Too mucn zdpp clogs catylitic convertor.
 
I know these engines are rated to be used with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and from the reviews and tests I've seen, this oil is superior to virtually all other name brands. I don't know how well it compares with Amsoil, but it was fairly obvious Pennzoil outperformed my previous favorite, Mobil 1, by quite a wide margin.

My thought process behind using an additive is mostly to eliminate dry starts, but I also agree with the methodology that if something ain't broke, don't fix it.

I'm going to be doing my first oil change soon when I hit 3,000 miles. Oil is still super clean and spot on level. I've driven it per the break-in instructions, including a decent amount of spirited driving, but I still have not yet floored/redlined it.
 
I know these engines are rated to be used with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and from the reviews and tests I've seen, this oil is superior to virtually all other name brands. I don't know how well it compares with Amsoil, but it was fairly obvious Pennzoil outperformed my previous favorite, Mobil 1, by quite a wide margin.

My thought process behind using an additive is mostly to eliminate dry starts, but I also agree with the methodology that if something ain't broke, don't fix it.

I'm going to be doing my first oil change soon when I hit 3,000 miles. Oil is still super clean and spot on level. I've driven it per the break-in instructions, including a decent amount of spirited driving, but I still have not yet floored/redlined it.
1st of all, you're probably doing yourself and your engine a disservice by not flooring it by now - so get out there and give it hell man! And then change the dam oil to get all those initial, break-in shavings outta there!

2nd of all, you, like me, were probably a Mobil1 fan until you watched the ProjectFarm guy's oil shoot-out. I also made the switch to Amsoil for all my machines now. The Pennzoil Ultra Plat did very well too though so I wouldnt be opposed to using that
 
I know these engines are rated to be used with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and from the reviews and tests I've seen, this oil is superior to virtually all other name brands. I don't know how well it compares with Amsoil, but it was fairly obvious Pennzoil outperformed my previous favorite, Mobil 1, by quite a wide margin.

My thought process behind using an additive is mostly to eliminate dry starts, but I also agree with the methodology that if something ain't broke, don't fix it.

I'm going to be doing my first oil change soon when I hit 3,000 miles. Oil is still super clean and spot on level. I've driven it per the break-in instructions, including a decent amount of spirited driving, but I still have not yet floored/redlined it.
2X Blaster9.
Floor that sucker man and let it crack off the shifts at RL!
The HC engines go through a test/minor break in at the factory.......But IMO it takes PRESSURE to fully seat the rings.
 
It's been posted here any additives can void the warranty because it says so in the manual.

I'm running Redline oil, no need for any additives. it does have more zinc than it probably should but I care more about the engine than the cats so I'll chance it. they'll probably get stolen before they plug anyway.
 
Whoa...

Everyone knows Mobil 1 is the best

In all seriousness...Shell Oil probably underbid the competitors to get the exclusive Stellantis deal. They did this with BMW a few years back too.
 
The concerns about zinc poisoning the cats are way overblown. For one, oil actually has to make it to them in the first place. If you have an engine that’s burning through a quart every 1-2k…yeah, it could shorten their life. But otherwise it’s nothing to worry about. Red Line, for what it’s worth, does not contain an “extreme” level of zinc anyway. Just under 1200 PPM.

IMO, the store bought oils (and even the beloved Amsoil) aren’t even worth comparing to one another. Just a bunch of Group III mineral oils masquerading as synthetics.

And they are definitely not worth comparing to something like Red Line which is actually synthetic (PAO / POE blend) and carries all the benefits of that chemistry. It has stout additives too, but they are a backstop and not a crutch. At the end of the day, additives and VI improvers are consumable. So having a synthetic base oil with natural solvency, oxidation resistance, and little to no need for VI improvers is a far better starting point.
 
1st of all, you're probably doing yourself and your engine a disservice by not flooring it by now - so get out there and give it hell man! And then change the dam oil to get all those initial, break-in shavings outta there!

2nd of all, you, like me, were probably a Mobil1 fan until you watched the ProjectFarm guy's oil shoot-out. I also made the switch to Amsoil for all my machines now. The Pennzoil Ultra Plat did very well too though so I wouldnt be opposed to using that
Yep, big fan of ProjectFarm. I shall be flooring it this weekend then.
 
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