Aux Switches Connectors

[MAXGroup]

I'm trying to locate where are the actual connectors to connect accessories to the auxiliary power switches. If anyone has a pic of where on the truck they are located it will be highly appriciated.

 

[marksouth]

I had asked one of the media guys that had a press mule this question. Sent me these pics and said it’s the bundle of wires taped up by the battery/fuse block. Can’t confirm yet if that’s still true in actual production vehicles, but hope still holds true.

 

[MAXGroup]

Thanks!!!

 

[Skiborsy]

 

[MAXGroup]

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@Skiborsy - very cool! I managed to find the wires. There are very much like @marksouth posted. There is an actual sticker on it that visibly says aux 1

 

[Elarson6772]

Sweet!!!!! Thanks!!!

 

[Skiborsy]

@Skiborsy - very cool! I managed to find the wires. There are very much like @marksouth posted. There is an actual sticker on it that visibly says aux 1

The owners manual!

 

[CarGuyOhio]

Wow, aux 1 and 4 has some pop.

 

[Skiborsy]

Wow, aux 1 and 4 has some pop.

Yeah, for reference, raptors have 2 each of 15, 10 and 5.

 

[CarGuyOhio]

Yeah, for reference, raptors have 2 each of 15, 10 and 5.

Yes, I had one. Only used three switches on that one for 3 pairs of front lights in them crazy bumper holes. It was kinda bright lol

The only thing I can think of on the TRX that I would add is if someone makes a nice lightbar for behind the grill or some aux backup lights.

 

[Sober1]

I would like to know if you could interrupt the ignition with one of these switches so as to use it as a kill switch when off, therefore thwarting someone who tries to scan your RFID fob from the street when you are in your house at night, they could unlock your car and try to start but unless they knew the ignition was hooked to a aux switch they couldn’t get it started, just a thought.

 

[STRADALE]

I would like to know if you could interrupt the ignition with one of these switches so as to use it as a kill switch when off, therefore thwarting someone who tries to scan your RFID fob from the street when you are in your house at night, they could unlock your car and try to start but unless they knew the ignition was hooked to a aux switch they couldn’t get it started, just a thought.

This is what I use. Absolutely works, I tested right next to the TRX w/ the fob inside, doors wouldnt unlock. Tried starting it with the key fob inside the box, wouldnt start. Or a Farady pouch which I got my son. Just search for “Faraday box” or “Faraday pouch”. Couple of months back a neighbor had his car stolen w. a relay, he saw what happened later off another neighbors security system. At first I tried a tin box & then an EZ pass bag but they didnt block the signal.

 

[Sober1]

This is what I use. Absolutely works, I tested right next to the TRX w/ the fob inside, doors wouldnt unlock. Tried starting it with the key fob inside the box, wouldnt start. Or a Farady pouch which I got my son. Just search for “Faraday box” or “Faraday pouch”. Couple of months back a neighbor had his car stolen w. a relay, he saw what happened later off another neighbors security system. At first I tried a tin box & then an EZ pass bag but they didnt block the signal.
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I ordered, it just sucks that we hav e to even worry about this.

 

[Tom488]

I would like to know if you could interrupt the ignition with one of these switches so as to use it as a kill switch when off, therefore thwarting someone who tries to scan your RFID fob from the street when you are in your house at night, they could unlock your car and try to start but unless they knew the ignition was hooked to a aux switch they couldn’t get it started, just a thought.

Sure. There's all kinds of games you could play. Use the output of one of the AUX circuits to drive another relay (so AUX #2 output wire to new relay terminal #86, ground terminal #85). Now cut your starter relay control wire, and connect one side to new relay terminal #30 (common), and the other side to terminal #87 (N/O). Your starter will now not operate UNLESS AUX#2 is on. To be even sneakier, program AUX#2 to be a momentary switch. Now you have to HOLD AUX2 on while pressing the start button.

 

[Sober1]

Sure. There's all kinds of games you could play. Use the output of one of the AUX circuits to drive another relay (so AUX #2 output wire to new relay terminal #86, ground terminal #85). Now cut your starter relay control wire, and connect one side to new relay terminal #30 (common), and the other side to terminal #87 (N/O). Your starter will now not operate UNLESS AUX#2 is on. To be even sneakier, program AUX#2 to be a momentary switch. Now you have to HOLD AUX2 on while pressing the start button.

I almost understand all that, have to wait to get trx, the idea that you can program the aux to momentary or just a powered switch seems amazing to me, I would feel better having a diagram to look at for all that as all I want to do is break the path of power to starter or ignition. Does (N/O) mean non operational?

 

[Tom488]

Sorry... N/O means normally open, as opposed to N/C, normally closed. On a 5-pin automotive relay, pin #30 is normally connected to pin #87A. When the electromagnet is engaged, it pulls the contactor off of 87A, and on to 87. Terminal #87 was normally open, but is now held closed by the relay's electromagnet. So, when the relay is activated, pin 30 connects to pin 87, instead of 87A - like this:

So, in the above, the output from AUX2 is your "switched 12V source (white wire)". "12v from front of car (blue wire)" is the starter relay control wire from the PDC. "Controller 12V (yellow wire)" is the other side of the starter relay control wire (the other side of the wire you cut). All you're doing is splicing that relay into the middle of that starter relay control wire. Without the new relay engaged, that starter control wire is effectively "cut". When you activate the new relay via AUX2, it effectively splices the starter relay control wire back together, and the truck can start.

The trick is to make the wiring as neat as possible, wrapping everything up in factory tape, wire looms, etc. - such that one would REALLY have to dig into the wiring to figure out what you did. Leaving a couple of Posi-Lok's showing on either side of the cut/spliced wire would make it rather obvious what's going on.

I'll get the rest of the wiring diagrams needed for this in a few...

 

[Tom488]

OK - here's the portion of the wiring diagram. You're looking to cut circuit T750, the Yellow/Gray wire from pin E2 of connector C1 of the Power Distribution Center. This is the starter relay output - it's what engages the solenoid on the starter, which pushes the pinion gear of the starter into the ring gear, and engages the high-amperage contacts that put direct battery voltage to the starter motor.

This is connector C1 on the bottom of the PDC:

And here's how to remove the PDC to get at the wiring:

 

[MAXGroup]

I don't know about that fancy kill switch. My TRX is safely locked in my garage and I have a couple ARs in case anyone tries to share my toys
If I'm parked somewhere else and someone tries to still it, I'm not to worried about that. First they stick like an elephant in a china shop, there are not that many of these out there yet, and unless the thief is really smart, it takes a minute to locate where the truck is.
And I have fucking insurance if all else fails.
I just want to splice in some lights....

 

[Tom488]

Alternatively, you could also grab that wire (circuit T750, Yellow/Gray) on pin #1 of connector XY201A, which is a 48-pin connector between the battery and the firewall.

Or you could grab it right at the starter as well - but that's further away and more exposed.

 

[Tom488]

I have a couple ARs in case anyone tries to share my toys

No Galils or Tavors?