ATI 10% Damper with Dyno (updated on page 3 for 2.85 upper, 1300 injectors and tune)

Steve Rollin

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I didn’t see a lot of threads on this so thought I would post up my results. I had an S&B intake but other than that no performance upgrades. I talked to a few shops in Houston and decided to install the ATI lower balancer/damper whatever you call it. No tune, stock injectors, etc which I understand could be a small risk. Just didn’t feel like voiding the warranty yet.

My guy included before and after dyno pulls. The 80 hp/60tq was better than I expected. Dyno attached below. This was done as rear wheel dyno which I think I read gives bigger numbers than actual? As you can tell I’m not super technical. Gauges showing a 2 psi bump in boost over what I was seeing previously. 8000 miles on my 2023.

Bracing myself for the no tune criticism :)

IMG_0283.webp
 
I didn’t see a lot of threads on this so thought I would post up my results. I had an S&B intake but other than that no performance upgrades. I talked to a few shops in Houston and decided to install the ATI lower balancer/damper whatever you call it. No tune, stock injectors, etc which I understand could be a small risk. Just didn’t feel like voiding the warranty yet.

My guy included before and after dyno pulls. The 80 hp/60tq was better than I expected. Dyno attached below. This was done as rear wheel dyno which I think I read gives bigger numbers than actual? As you can tell I’m not super technical. Gauges showing a 2 psi bump in boost over what I was seeing previously. 8000 miles on my 2023.

Bracing myself for the no tune criticism :)

View attachment 122691
Your warranty is void. Lack of tune does not matter. Good overall gain but the lack of tune does show in the curve…looks like a fair bit of knock retard in the mid range.

As long as you guys logged injector duty cycle, FP, AFR and timing then it could still be a safe tune from a fuel standpoint. No clue what the IDC % is at peak.

Good luck. I would hope that a shop that knows that their customer isn’t “super technical” would look out for them and not do anything stupid like tell them it’s only a small risk to run too lean or on the edge of detonation.
 
Your warranty is void. Lack of tune does not matter. Good overall gain but the lack of tune does show in the curve…looks like a fair bit of knock retard in the mid range.

As long as you guys logged injector duty cycle, FP, AFR and timing then it could still be a safe tune from a fuel standpoint. No clue what the IDC % is at peak.

Good luck. I would hope that a shop that knows that their customer isn’t “super technical” would look out for them and not do anything stupid like tell them it’s only a small risk to run too lean or on the edge of detonation.
Yeah should have said technically can be returned to stock. In theory. I don’t know half of those acronyms so I’m just gonna say a little prayer
 
Yeah should have said technically can be returned to stock. In theory. I don’t know half of those acronyms so I’m just gonna say a little prayer
Can be returned to stock but the PCM records the boost pressure ratio between blower input and output. So any pulley combo change is automatically known by the dealer.

This topic has certainly been discussed at length here but the short is this:

The warranty is gone on the motor and blower. You can stay untuned and hope for the best. Or you can actually tune and know everything is safe (made adjustments where needed). Would also tell you if you are extending your injectors too far. So the question is, with the warranty gone, why wouldn’t you tune?
 
Interesting. Well maybe I’ll consider a tune in that case. Didn’t do that much research to be honest. Just talked to two places. So if I understand what you’re saying, all the people who do the incognito or similar devices would have the same issue? Because the ratio would change then as well right?
 
Interesting. Well maybe I’ll consider a tune in that case. Didn’t do that much research to be honest. Just talked to two places. So if I understand what you’re saying, all the people who do the incognito or similar devices would have the same issue? Because the ratio would change then as well right?
I can't speak for everyone - this is my own experience: when I traded my first TRX in (for my new one), the dealer did not express any issues to me post-inspection. I had an incog on for roughly 18K miles, and pulled it off a few days before making the drive to Iowa to get my new TRX. I did notice my old truck being advertised with an in-tact warranty, and as far as I could tell, it was sold that way (rather quickly too).

But to @AZDinoPwr point, I never brought my truck in for any mechanical issues prior (because it didn't have any), and I perform my own maintenance. And everything else he said is 100% on-point. I'm over the whole trying to "dance around voiding my warranty" thing with a lower pulley. Whenever I turn the boost up this time around, I'm doing it with an upper, tune and whatever other supporting mods I need (i.e. injectors) for a solid flex 93/E85 setup on the stock blower.
 
Interesting. Well maybe I’ll consider a tune in that case. Didn’t do that much research to be honest. Just talked to two places. So if I understand what you’re saying, all the people who do the incognito or similar devices would have the same issue? Because the ratio would change then as well right?
Correct. And a couple dealerships have posted on this forum that anyone bringing in a TRX for motor warranty work gets the PCM checked to see if the pressure ratio has been changed. They said they will void the warranty specifically bc of what folks were doing with the incog.
 
Correct. And a couple dealerships have posted on this forum that anyone bringing in a TRX for motor warranty work gets the PCM checked to see if the pressure ratio has been changed. They said they will void the warranty specifically bc of what folks were doing with the incog.
Thanks dude. Felt like I read a decent amount but def was unaware of this. I’ll look into tunes. Let me just ask here although I’m sure it’s elsewhere. Are there tunes that work well with just my lower pulley without doing injectors etc? Not trying to squeeze more out of this just more of a safety net
 
Correct. And a couple dealerships have posted on this forum that anyone bringing in a TRX for motor warranty work gets the PCM checked to see if the pressure ratio has been changed. They said they will void the warranty specifically bc of what folks were doing with the incog.
Well damn didn't know this either. But Dusterhoff DT937 flex is on the horizon anyway. Good to know at least 🍻
 
Interesting...i wonder at what point the dealer will actually say ok warranty is void. I think 99% would agree that an intake doesnt void warranty. An intake nets a 1lb increase in boost give or take. So what's 0.5-1 more pound? The difference in boost from stock with intake vs. stock with Incognito is like half a pound more or less. I cant imagine that would be the difference in whether a warranty on the engine & blower is gone or not.

However, if you unlock and tune, then 150% you're toast if something happens. If it were me in your shoes, I'd just see if your stock tune is safe enough to run this 10% lower. Most likely playing with fire. Assuming unsafe, I'd tune or remove the lower and swap in a Predator and leave stock tune.
 
Correct. And a couple dealerships have posted on this forum that anyone bringing in a TRX for motor warranty work gets the PCM checked to see if the pressure ratio has been changed. They said they will void the warranty specifically bc of what folks were doing with the incog.
Every dealer is different. I have at least 2 dealers here that give 0 Fs about the Incog/Predator for warranty purposes. 1 of them would even tell you to go home and swap in the stock lower and bring it back for repair lol.
 
I think if the OP removed his lower and went in to the dealer for warranty repair he could probably just tell them he drove his truck to Alaska in the winter and went WOT on the top of a glacier with the S&B lid removed. I'm sure his 2lbs of added boost would then be somewhat explainable lol
 
I think if the OP removed his lower and went in to the dealer for warranty repair he could probably just tell them he drove his truck to Alaska in the winter and went WOT on the top of a glacier with the S&B lid removed. I'm sure his 2lbs of added boost would then be somewhat explainable lol
lol I like your creative thinking. I was kind of thinking same thing though. In rare event something explodes I’d 100 percent drop the factory balancer back on and have an argument to make. I mean at the end of the day it’s hard to say exactly what causes what. It’s a calculated risk for sure
 
One tuner in Houston told me I’d already voided the warranty with my intake. So opinions definitely vary
 
Interesting...i wonder at what point the dealer will actually say ok warranty is void. I think 99% would agree that an intake doesnt void warranty. An intake nets a 1lb increase in boost give or take. So what's 0.5-1 more pound? The difference in boost from stock with intake vs. stock with Incognito is like half a pound more or less. I cant imagine that would be the difference in whether a warranty on the engine & blower is gone or not.

However, if you unlock and tune, then 150% you're toast if something happens. If it were me in your shoes, I'd just see if your stock tune is safe enough to run this 10% lower. Most likely playing with fire. Assuming unsafe, I'd tune or remove the lower and swap in a Predator and leave stock tune.
We have had this conversation before. This has nothing to do with the absolute value of boost or what A dealerships preferences are.

1. Any motor warranty work for a blown motor or blower goes straight to Stellantis for approval and the PCM data gets sent. Folks on here who work at the dealerships have confirmed this. The dealership could be the best in the world to work with but it doesn’t matter. My dealership has looked the other way on every warranty repair including the driveshaft despite them knowing I’m tuned. But they have said if anything requires Stellantis approval then I’m SOL.

2. Boost changes with altitude because blowers operate on a fixed compression ratio that is tied linearly to their RPM which is dictated by the pulley ratio. Changing pulleys changes blower RPM and the pressure ratio. Yes you could pulley up at higher altitudes and still be less than the stock boost level. But it would be immediately apparent by looking at the ratio between MAP1 and MAP2. Therefore Stellantis knows you changed the blower RPM and your warranty is void.
 
We have had this conversation before. This has nothing to do with the absolute value of boost or what A dealerships preferences are.

1. Any motor warranty work for a blown motor or blower goes straight to Stellantis for approval and the PCM data gets sent. Folks on here who work at the dealerships have confirmed this. The dealership could be the best in the world to work with but it doesn’t matter. My dealership has looked the other way on every warranty repair including the driveshaft despite them knowing I’m tuned. But they have said if anything requires Stellantis approval then I’m SOL.

2. Boost changes with altitude because blowers operate on a fixed compression ratio that is tied linearly to their RPM which is dictated by the pulley ratio. Changing pulleys changes blower RPM and the pressure ratio. Yes you could pulley up at higher altitudes and still be less than the stock boost level. But it would be immediately apparent by looking at the ratio between MAP1 and MAP2. Therefore Stellantis knows you changed the blower RPM and your warranty is void.
Ok hear me out here. I’m grasping at straws. But what if I said my belt was slipping. Consistently 10 percent. For a few thousand miles??
 
I think if the OP removed his lower and went in to the dealer for warranty repair he could probably just tell them he drove his truck to Alaska in the winter and went WOT on the top of a glacier with the S&B lid removed. I'm sure his 2lbs of added boost would then be somewhat explainable lol
And then Stellantis (not the dealer) would claim the intake was what popped the motor.
 

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