I spoke to Fore. They recommend keeping 1/3-1/2 a tank. I have plenty of Fore setups before on vehicles but the required fluid level to act as a heat sink for longevity varies depending on the specific vehicle design and application. I could run my V down to 1/8 tank on a Fore triple pump without issue. For the TRX every shop I know recommends to keep it higher.
Most of those fuel systems require a partially full tank not for cooling, but because they lack the factory fuel pump bucket. They'll run dry under any high G loading with a near-empty tank, which obviously ends poorly. It also could just be Fore covering their ass, you never really know unless you ask and they decide to give you an honest answer.
It has to do with the specific heat sink capacity in the OEM pump. Some pumps can handle the higher current draw better than others. Coil winding location in regard to the case has a lot to do with this. From what I have seen, MOPAR quality is the lowest of any brand I have done builds in. But at its core, a BAP is a bandaid. And since the TRX won’t throw a code for low fuel pressure you better have a gauge to monitor along with an alert (currently doing that on the stock pumps) since you won’t know when a pump goes out (with or without BAP).
Yes, adding more voltage and amperage creates more heat... when you're using the BAP, which is only above 50% throttle if you have it setup like mine. Below that, i.e. for nearly ALL my driving, there's no added voltage to the pump, and thus no extra wear. It only kicks in when you romp on it, which isn't that often or for that long, so the pump never really gets a chance to heat up that much. When you do hit on it, it might heat up a little bit, but it quickly cools down.
Sure, on a race car that's always full throttle, it would maybe be an issue, though I've seen plenty of those that make the BAPs work for extended periods as well. I disagree they're a bandaid. That's like saying adding a smaller upper pulley is a bandaid instead of buying a Whipple. Sure, you're pushing OEM parts past their normal working range, but that doesn't mean they're going to fail. Ask me how I know, I've engineered parts with hilarious safety factors before just because it's convenient or there's some other design goal. It's hard to know the limitations of a given part without a ton of R&D or lots of real-world data.
So you have a build with over 200k miles on it with a BAP the entire time? That is impressive.
I have a 2014 Ram with 210k miles on the factory fuel pump, and it runs 11s NA, zero issues. Making well over 500 at the crank. No BAP because it isn't required, but my statement was to point out that you can make a factory fuel pump run for a reaaaaaally long time. Tons and tons of guys running OEM MOPAR pumps on the 5.7" Hemis without issue, many with E85, boost, or otherwise.
FWIW, we have had 4 stock pump failures now on this forum and all from folks running e85. I’m thinking the stock pumps are either already getting pretty warm or the OE quality is just crap.
Four issues on an entire forum is a FAR cry from being a trend. People don't come to a forum to complain when their stuff works just fine, they just keep on with their lives.
But I stand by my statement…and I really don’t know what your point is. I said BAPs shorten the lifespans and you responded with “disagree” but then said BAPs do wear out the pump faster. So…
You said "Great for budget track cars. Bad for daily driven builds or high heat climates." I disagree with those statements, not that it might technically lower the life of the pump by some indeterminate amount that won't actually affect anyone because it could be at half a million miles instead of 600k.
In closing, I understand your points and it sounds like maybe you've had some bad experiences with BAPs. While unfortunate, it doesn't necessarily mean they're all bad.
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