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*21* RAM TRX / HELLCAT OIL FILTERS CUT & COMPARED

What is your pick of the bunch?


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OnTheReel

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To my knowledge this is the largest compilation of it’s kind as far as filters for this application. Obviously all of these fit the TRX as well as the Chargers, Challengers and even Hemi Rams (without EPS).

DE0771BC-76F5-47FD-BC8D-160EB9D5050F.jpeg


This is not meant to be an argument for what’s best (although I’ve included a poll so you can cast your vote for what you use or will use). I’ve simply gathered all the specs I could find, cut them open and wrote some objective thoughts on what I saw. I bought all of these with my own money, I am not involved in this industry and have no dog in this fight. When shopping I tried to find the best deals on each one but prices will vary.

First spec chart (also available as PDF at bottom of post):

Screen Shot 2022-08-24 at 3.42.42 PM.png


I am limited in attachments so I will post one photo per filter in this main post and stick to the filters one would be most likely to use.

Mopar MO-899:
26DB8CCD-ED66-4247-AAE7-A529FC42118E.jpeg

Factory equipped. Manufactured by Purolator in USA. Filter portion is identical to the FL-820-S with threaded end bypass. Which is theoretically a slight advantage as when it goes into bypass you aren’t potentially washing the dirty side of the filter into the oil. Pleat spacing is fairly wide and not all that even. The metal internal end-caps aren’t glued extremely tight, it pulled apart very easily compared to the rest. This is not an issue since the spring will hold it together in use, just wanted to make a note of that.

Mopar MO-041:
884082FC-2B52-4CE4-984E-091046F8BEB5.jpeg

This is the OEM+ “upgrade” filter designed for the Viper. Specs are taken from the identical Wix 57063 and overall it's a solid choice I have used in the past. This filter disappeared from stock for a few months but is back and basically identical, but a little less well finished. More on that on page 3.

Mobil M1-210A:
1EB317F2-3F1D-4C96-A451-5C940407EE86.jpeg

These are now made by Mann & Hummel and share some parts with the Purolators (who are also under that umbrella). Same base plate, ADBV, and dome-end bypass design. Speaking of, I had to call them for the bypass PSI. They said it’s 22 PSI, which would make it the highest here. Good filter surface area and well made. Efficiency is middle of the pack, sold as an extended drain interval filter.

Purolator PureOne PL24651:
F2A8C7FC-15FD-46A1-ADDE-27039EFDD000.jpeg

The PureOne is a good midrange filter. Very efficient and decent build quality. Much like the MO-899, the metal end caps weren’t very tight on there.

Purolator Boss PLB24651:
2B96E1F1-6AA2-4A5D-958E-08A72DB9EFA9.jpeg

This one impressed me. The thing is a tank. Extremely heavy case and tightly spaced media with no flaws. Synthetic media is backed up by a plastic mesh and is super tough and hard to tear. Geared more toward extended drain intervals, the efficiency isn’t at the top of the pack but still very good. I bought it on sale locally for $9.99 and that seems like a a very good deal for what you get. Very nice filter.

Wix 51372XP:
B8513414-A56D-4170-847F-1324C6364512.jpeg

Overall build quality is good with wire backed synthetic media, BUT it is geared solely toward long drain intervals. As such, the efficiency rating is the worst by far. In the independent test chart it did not do much better than rated. In fact, it was off the scale bad. Unfortunately there are much better options with media that provide good flow, good capacity AND better filtration.

Wix 51372:
3E06C55E-CE6A-47C8-8BD5-6B75DBB4ABAF.jpeg

Pleats are fairly evenly spaced, but put together a bit sloppily with messy glue on the filter media along the seam. It’s a perfectly fine filter though. I would use it over the XP based on the fact that it actually filters.

Fram XG2:
011DC475-232E-4720-AB81-627979495C42.jpeg

This is the most efficient filter on the market, but it’s a Fram so many dismiss it out of hand. Pleat count isn’t as high, and spacing isn’t quite as pretty as some others, but the synthetic media is double layered, wire-backed and flows very well. These filters also have a very high capacity. Well built.

K&N HP-2010:
13F6C862-685A-4F54-95C0-304A8307DFF0.jpeg

Pretty heavy and well made by Champion Labs (along with the Amsoil and Royal Purple). This one has a synthetic blend media whereas the other two are full synthetic. Unfortunately K&N doesn’t publish efficiency specs, and I feel there are better options for less money. Unless you just gotta have the removal nut!

AMSOIL EAO11:
83ED8683-6738-4781-AA36-5F80F908C949.jpeg

This one surprised me. It’s easily the most expensive filter here, but the only one made in Mexico. Kind of disappointing. I like the media in this filter, it performs very well. Unfortunately the price has recently been raised to $17.90 (or $22.90 if you aren’t a preferred member) and that’s just too much money for what you get. Compared to the US-built Champion Labs filters like the Royal Purple, the base plate is thinner and lighter with fewer holes. Otherwise construction closely resembles the Royal Purple. Filter media is slightly different though which explains the slightly higher efficiency on this Amsoil.

Royal Purple 20-820:
201293EE-48CF-470C-9092-5283D94D2D7D.jpeg

Really nice filter. Wire backed synthetic media, heavy baseplate and good build quality, USA made. And not obscenely priced either. Compared to the very similar Amsoil, you don’t give up much and it’s a downright bargain.

In the second post I will share the remaining entry level filters I cut open, as well as some independent flow and efficiency data I found online for a different application…

8/24/2022 Update. Added more filters and updated specs on charts. Added new photos and final thoughts on page 3.
 

Attachments

  • OIL FILTER CHART v2.pdf
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OnTheReel

OnTheReel

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Here are the rest. Nothing I would use but a good illustration of what costs get cut on the cheap filters.

Fram PH2:
D5AFC4E7-915F-4D44-B9F7-744E0583DFCD.jpeg

The world’s most popular filter in all it’s cardboard glory.

Fram TG2:
06435887-096E-4B4A-8D13-13F5D6D3F9EE.jpeg

Like an Extra Guard but with better media. For $2 more I’d get the Ultra.

SuperTech ST2:
30D33359-318D-4B57-A4D8-A503622FCC51.jpeg

If you want a Fram Extra Guard, but cheaper and worse, this SuperTech is for you. Same filter, but none of the good the Fram gives you (silicone ADBV, grippy coating).

Purolator Classic L24651:
CAE2DD1D-1AFE-4693-9517-13B618ED0A0F.jpeg

This is actually pretty good for $5. Wouldn’t use it on the TRX but for an old beater or something it’s perfect. Worlds above the Fram PH2.

I’ll try to keep this it short and digestible. In my first post, the chart shows efficiency specs provided by the manufacturer when possible. In some cases, the manufacturer will only publish at 25 or 30 microns. This allows them to claim “99% efficient” even though the actual rating at 20 microns would be lower.

Now, some independent testing I scraped up. These are for a different application, but the data is still interesting. The first chart shows the impressive efficiency of some, and not so impressive efficiency of the Wix XP. The Wix isn’t even on the scale in the second one.
Efficiency Compairson Graph Pic 2zz.jpg

Efficiency Compairson Graph Pic 4.jpg


Bypass pressures and does it matter? The bypass in any oil filter is there to ensure that the pressure differential across the filter does not exceed a set PSI, as that could lead to filter media failure and/or oil starvation. In normal driving with hot oil, none of the filters demonstrated should be bypassing. Cold starts, WOT with cold oil, they all very well could by in bypass. That doesn’t mean that none of the oil is getting filtered, just that some isn’t.

Much is made about “high flowing filters”, usually accompanied by nebulous flow charts. But this test illustrates the pressure differential across various filters for various flow rates, and how evenly matched any off the shelf filters are. They were tested all the way up to 50 LPM, or 13.2 GPM. That oil flow may not even be seen at WOT, let alone in normal driving. But even at that “worst case scenario”, the difference in delta-P between the highest and lowest flowing filter is only around 6 PSI. At lower flow rates, the difference is much less. At half the flow it’s only ~2 PSI. Basically irrelevant.
2B62133F-B120-47C0-A5C9-26A6525E6E19.jpeg

Note that the Fram Ultra is the most efficient in the test, but also one of the better flowing filters. With synthetic media, it doesn’t need to be one or the other, however it does hold up that the least efficient filter in the test did have the lowest pressure differential. I’m not going to say that flow doesn’t matter at all, but that some place too much emphasis on it.

That’s all for now, I’m going cross-eyed.
 
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Phillytrx

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Engine masters had a show just on oil filters.
It’s a good watch with some good info.
 

Billet P

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Thanks for this info.
 
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Can you just tell us which is the best for the trx? My eye is twitching and i went into fetal position after the 1st paragraph
Was trying to avoid that reaction but there’s just a lot of data. 😉

“Best” is tough to define because each of the filters have their positives and negatives. I would have no issue running most of the filters in my first post. I use the SRT filters currently but I cut up one of my last two.

Otherwise I like blend of performance, build quality, and value that the Royal Purple, Purolator Boss and Fram Ultra offer. Nothing wrong with the Amsoil either, but the value for money is not there.
 
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Last photo dump.

PureOne media on left, Mopar MO-899 on right. Held them up to light, even looked under a (low power) microscope…sure as hell look the same to me. That’s a good thing though.
845234F9-CE0D-4E77-90E8-14C7A94DD611.jpeg

Some selected other filter media measurements and close ups. No fair way to gauge the synthetics because the mesh is thoroughly stuck onto most. Throws the measurement off, but removing it would too. Just squeezed as hard as I could and ran with it. Not really a consequential data point anyway.

A3497FE5-11AE-4C95-8554-1414D8D8E5CE.jpeg
BC14AA28-4BE9-4AC3-9113-ED2245B9E758.jpeg
E9E21803-2AF6-4F9E-A6C4-07D2C539EFCD.jpeg
C884E290-34AA-4353-BF77-282836E9615C.jpeg

AEE2A3E2-28DB-4FD9-B61A-FC255FC659C9.jpeg
56179D90-9004-44E8-8889-B3FE5F26ED28.jpeg

The RP & Amsoil have the same exact backing and even the same green paint marks on the material. But the Amsoil is more of a smooth cotton type material and the RP two thinner layers of fibers.
 

Jb123

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Hmmmmm. Sucking thumb in fetal now, with a line of drool.

Riddle us this then, which one would you never use??
 
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Hmmmmm. Sucking thumb in fetal now, with a line of drool.

Riddle us this then, which one would you never use??
Wix XP, Fram PH2, Fram TG2, SuperTech, Purolator Classic are all non-starters for me.

Wouldn’t go out of my way to buy a regular Wix, K&N, or M1 either. I’ve used them all on stuff before and I don’t think they are bad, just better options available for the money. The Boss destroys the M1 for the same price, the RP outperforms the K&N for less money, and if I wanted a cheaper filter I’d just run the stock MO-899 over the Wix because there’s no real performance difference.
 

TerrysTRX

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Wow. Actually a really informative post. Thanks for doing this. Maybe I’ll look at Royal Purple as opposed to the Amsoil I’ve been running.
 

Toad98370

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Great information, thank you for sharing your time and thoughts.
 

os1r1s

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Nice work! I'd love to see a similar result after its used, similar to what we do with airplane oil filters.
 
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Nice work! I'd love to see a similar result after its used, similar to what we do with airplane oil filters.
Yep, that’s a good idea. I will certainly cut open the MO-041 filter that’s on there when I do the next oil change. And then maybe work through some of the other top finishers over the next year or two.

Will also update if I find any other interesting filters, and when the “new” MO-041 comes to light.
 

os1r1s

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Yep, that’s a good idea. I will certainly cut open the MO-041 filter that’s on there when I do the next oil change. And then maybe work through some of the other top finishers over the next year or two.

Will also update if I find any other interesting filters, and when the “new” MO-041 comes to light.
One of the tricks they use with aircraft filters is to take a portion of the accordion folds and squeeze them in a vise. That will squeeze the oil out of it (and make quite a mess), but what will be left is a relatively clean filters sans any metal content. This is probably most interesting at the first oil change in this case, but it would be a great way to see the stuff the filters caught. Aluminum and steel show up very well, and can even be sorted through with a magnet. After the oil is squeezed out there is a ton you can do :) Thanks again!
 

El Jefe

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Here are the rest. Nothing I would use but a good illustration of what costs get cut on the cheap filters.

Fram PH2:View attachment 39053
The world’s most popular filter in all it’s cardboard glory.

Fram TG2:
View attachment 39054
Like an Extra Guard but with better media. For $2 more I’d get the Ultra.

SuperTech ST2:
View attachment 39055
If you want a Fram Extra Guard, but cheaper and worse, this SuperTech is for you. Same filter, but none of the good the Fram gives you (silicone ADBV, grippy coating).

Purolator Classic L24651:View attachment 39056
This is actually pretty good for $5. Wouldn’t use it on the TRX but for an old beater or something it’s perfect. Worlds above the Fram PH2.

I’ll try to keep this it short and digestible. In my first post, the chart shows efficiency specs provided by the manufacturer when possible. In some cases, the manufacturer will only publish at 25 or 30 microns. This allows them to claim “99% efficient” even though the actual rating at 20 microns would be lower.

Now, some independent testing I scraped up. These are for a different application, but the data is still interesting. The first chart shows the impressive efficiency of some, and not so impressive efficiency of the Wix XP. The Wix isn’t even on the scale in the second one.View attachment 39057
View attachment 39058

Bypass pressures and does it matter? The bypass in any oil filter is there to ensure that the pressure differential across the filter does not exceed a set PSI, as that could lead to filter media failure and/or oil starvation. In normal driving with hot oil, none of the filters demonstrated should be bypassing. Cold starts, WOT with cold oil, they all very well could by in bypass. That doesn’t mean that none of the oil is getting filtered, just that some isn’t.

Much is made about “high flowing filters”, usually accompanied by nebulous flow charts. But this test illustrates the pressure differential across various filters for various flow rates, and how evenly matched any off the shelf filters are. They were tested all the way up to 50 LPM, or 13.2 GPM. That oil flow may not even be seen at WOT, let alone in normal driving. But even at that “worst case scenario”, the difference in delta-P between the highest and lowest flowing filter is only around 6 PSI. At lower flow rates, the difference is much less. At half the flow it’s only ~2 PSI. Basically irrelevant.View attachment 39060
Note that the Fram Ultra is the most efficient in the test, but also one of the better flowing filters. With synthetic media, it doesn’t need to be one or the other, however it does hold up that the least efficient filter in the test did have the lowest pressure differential. I’m not going to say that flow doesn’t matter at all, but that some place too much emphasis on it.

That’s all for now, I’m going cross-eyed.
. . .well done and thank you for posting.
 

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