2023+ digital cluster swap (COMPLETE WRITE UP)

OnTheReel

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1/16/2025 update: Now that everything is worked out, I thought it would be best to rewrite the how-to with some different “stages” to the swap, from basic cluster only to 100% function with the steering wheel switch, custom tiles working, and maps working.

First thing to know, mileage correction can’t be done via AlfaOBD yet but I was told it’s being worked on. With that out of the way, let’s look at the stages.

Stage 1 (cluster only):

To do this at its most basic level, you only need the cluster and a custom adapter harness from Jimmy07.

To purchase the cluster new (if available) you will need to eat a substantial core charge in addition to buying the cluster. Prices fluctuate but you could probably spend 2 grand.

Used is obviously the way to go if you keep an eye out and stay patient. Also important to note…if you wind up finding a cluster from a different trim level you can just swap the mask (lens) to the TRX version so the trim matches. It’ll also take care of any scratches or damage and make it look brand new. The part number for the mask is: 68620863AA and this part is around $150.

Installation:

***First, make a note of your total mileage and hours before taking the original cluster out.***

Then, disconnect the battery. Once that’s done, we can start inside. The cluster trim bezel just unclips (albeit with a lot of force). Then we can pull the center stack/ screen. Two Phillips screws under the tray on top and then just pull to release it from its clips. I threw a towel over the shifter area to give it some padding and scratch protection. You don’t need to actually remove the screen, just pull it out so we can get the starter button trim off later.

Once the screen is out of the way, grab and pull off the leather (or plastic) trim around the TRX button. Grab and pull the headlight switch out. With those pieces removed you just pull off the two pieces of carbon fiber (or plastic) trim around the cluster. Work from the bottom of those pieces because they have tabs that lever into position on top.

Pull the top of the knee buster down and finally we can unscrew the fake leather steering column surround, and at last get to the 4 cluster screws.
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Then it’s down to just pulling the old cluster out and plugging the new one in using the adapter. Make sure to orient the adapter to match the wire positions in the factory harness. It’s not keyed and could be plugged in wrong so just reference the wire positions and line it up that way. I also elected to Tesa Tape over this connection to keep it secure. Speaking of the adapter harness…the small 2 pin plug on the adapter plugs into the Ethernet block of the radio on Ucconnect 5 trucks, and is not used on the UC4 trucks. If you have UC5, plug it in. If you don’t but plan to upgrade at some point, might as well run that wire into the general area of the radio module behind the screen so you don’t have to re-do it later.
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Once everything is plugged in and BEFORE reassembling everything, re-connect the battery and turn the key on to confirm cluster operation. If good, put everything back together and enjoy.

***The limitations to “stage 1” are as follows:

-You will NOT have the ability to display maps in the new cluster.

-You will NOT have the ability to display or configure the custom tiles.

-If your new cluster has fewer than 500 miles you lose launch control until it crosses that threshold, just like if the truck was new. Just thought that was funny.

You WILL, however, gain “Sport” (tachometer) and “Baja” (tire pressure) views on your HUD if equipped. In addition to having a cool new cluster, of course.
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Stage 2 (BCM & custom tiles):

The next logical progression if you want more of the exclusive features of this digital cluster involves some more work and a few more parts (2023 BCM and switch).

As far as I can tell the new switch isn’t actually required and will only be replaced to make the labeling on the buttons correct. Otherwise I believe the original voice command button will actually trigger the tiles.

The 2023 BCM, however, IS required and must be brand new. A dealer will have to install, more on that later.

To even attempt this stage you will also need AlfaOBD, a PC or Android, an SGW bypass (or Tazer) and a Bluetooth OBD scanner. I elected to use a PC and the OBDlink MX+ scanner. Vlinker MC+ is also a good option. The cheaper ones can’t access the IHS bus which we need to do on “stage 3” to calibrate the CVPM.

Before replacing anything, start by doing a final backup of your original BCM via AlfaOBD. I’ll briefly cover this, however if you’re attempting something this involved I hope or at least assume you have some working knowledge.

To obtain the backup file: Once connected, click the car with hood open (active diagnostic), drop down the menu box and scroll all the way to the bottom, and choose “backup configuration to file”. Once the file is created, a pop up data box will tell you where on the PC or Android device the file is stored.

With that done, the next stage unfortunately involves a dealer. You must take the new BCM in with the truck and ask that they install and program it. They will restore it, take it out of plant mode, and link it with the RF hub. While we can do the first couple parts with AlfaOBD, we can’t do the latter.

***Try not to give the dealer any more than they ask for. Don’t tell them what you are doing. Just say you need it programmed and installed. The advisor didn’t ask why initially but then approached me in the lobby a little confused about me going out of pocket because it’s still under warranty. I just told him I wanted a spare because I’m keeping the truck forever and building a parts supply. Which is…mostly true.***

With this hopefully done and the truck back home, you now need to change to the 2023 settings via AlfaOBD to assign the proper function to the steering wheel buttons (and map feature if you plan to do stage 3):

VehConfig 1: Model Year- 2023

ECUConfig 3: Audio Steering Wheel Switch Configuration- Core Steering Wheel

ECUConfig 3: Unique Core Steering Wheel- Yes

CustSetMenu 3: Album Art In Cluster- Yes

CustSetMenu 3: Audio Steering Wheel Controls on IPC- Yes

CustSetMenu 3: Cluster Size- 12 Inch

CustSetMenu 3: Nav Map In Cluster- Yes


Bonus Feature for those equipped with front park assist and surround view cameras:
CustSetMenu 3: Park Sense Based Camera Activation- Yes


In case you gained rear seat alert reminder with the 2023 BCM swap, these will get rid of all chimes and warnings associated with it:

CustSetMenu 3: FOA Type CSO- No

CustSetMenu 3: FOA Presence CSO- No


In case you gained the “three horn honk” with the 2023 bcm swap:

CustSetMenu 3: Unintended Idle Alert- No

Your tile button should now work:
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Stage 3 (UC5/2023 radio swap):
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This is the final frontier to get all of the functions of a factory installed digital cluster (maps).

Depending on your ambition, the model year of your truck, and your wallet this may or may not make sense to do but it’s the only way to get the map view in the cluster.

2021 guys…this one is gonna hurt. Need to do the full UC5 swap. 2023 radio, 2022+ UC5 screen, adapter cables from Jimmy07, and a new 2023+ CVPM (if you have surround vision).

Notes on the screens: There’s no real reason to buy a blank one. If you have a TRX, you have the hardware to support LKA. Might as well buy the one with the LKA button and simply enable in AlfaOBD. Park assist, on the other hand will never work on the TRX.

Also, IF you buy a used screen with the wrong button combo up top, OR with a scratched piano black bezel, it’s simple enough to transplant the new screen into your existing bezel and retain all original switches as well. There are a good number of Phillips screws holding the aluminum back frame/ chassis to the bezel and screen. With all of them removed, you can then release the clips around the perimeter of the chassis and finally get the chassis out of the way. Then there are just three ribbon cables to unhook by carefully lifting the black tabs holding them in:
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After that you can lift the screen out and plop it into your old bezel. Note: these connections are fragile!!! If you aren’t comfortable working with modern electronics you may want to leave it alone. But it IS an option if you should choose.

***If you have a 2022, you should NOT need a new CVPM and you definitely do NOT need a new screen or any adapter cables. You just need a 2023 radio and the aforementioned 2023 BCM from “stage 2”.***

Anyway…The first thing to do is note the serial number on the radio module (NOT the screen) and enter it at: https://findradiocode.com/

That site will give you your 4 digit pin to enter once everything is installed. Kind of obvious but make sure to get the pin before putting the module in because there’s no way to see the SN once it’s installed.

Assuming you are going from UC4, installing the UC5 components is straightforward. Pull the center stack out, pull the radio module out, and plug in the adapters. Everything can only go one way and you’ll be left with a few extra fakra connectors due to the UC5 system using a separate telematics module instead of building these into the radio. You’ll also be left with the old UC4 LVDS cable which can just be tucked away:
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If you have a 2021 with surround view you’ll also need to swap the CVPM at this time. It’s in the passenger footwell under the kick panel and is a straight swap:
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Once installed, you’ll have to reboot the truck a few times before the screen kicks on. Once it’s booted up, you need to enter the unlock code and then do a full factory reset so your performance pages appear and everything syncs up correctly.

Once everything seems to be working you will also need to calibrate the cameras in AlfaOBD. Each individual camera should come up when you select them but until calibrated you will just get a black box around the overhead view:
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NOTE: If you go out of order and install the 2023 radio BEFORE the 2023 BCM, you will need to reset the radio after the BCM is replaced. Otherwise maps and other functions will NOT work correctly.

So that’s what it takes to do this at all levels! This should hopefully save the next guy a ton of time as it took hours of research, trial and error and a ton of setbacks. I’m sure happy it’s over and even more happy with the result.
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Complete part number list:

Cluster: 68510283AH

Cluster mask (if using cluster from different trim level): 68620863AA

Tile switch: 68529653AA

Screen (blanks): 68526597AC

Screen (LKA): 68526598AC

Screen (LKA + park): 68526524AC

2023 radio: 68583503AE

2023 CVPM: 56029968AF

2023 BCM: 68584071AG
 
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Wow impressive! Looks great. Your project is much more in depth than mine we had talked about.
 
Maybe the tile button is an AlfaOBD change?? Have you asked @Jimmy07 ?

Nice work and write up! The digital cluster is so much better.
 
Wow impressive! Looks great. Your project is much more in depth than mine we had talked about.
I’m not so sure, seems like you were digging pretty deep into the bowels of your wiring lol.
Maybe the tile button is an AlfaOBD change?? Have you asked @Jimmy07 ?

Nice work and write up! The digital cluster is so much better.
I did. He doesn’t really know what the hang up is on this function either. There’s no programming to do, the switch is the right part #, and others who have done the swap didn’t have this issue. I don’t know if those were on TRXs because I’ve not seen one swapped yet, but that shouldn’t really matter.

I’ll keep researching and in the meantime hope it just randomly changes its mind. My gut says swapping to UC5 would probably fix it somehow, but I’m just shooting in the dark.
 
Nice write up. What was your total cost? Infotainment.com is supposedly coming out with plug n play Cluster swap soon they claim
 
Nice write up. What was your total cost? Infotainment.com is supposedly coming out with plug n play Cluster swap soon they claim
I’m into it for a touch over $1400 all in. Sourcing the cluster used like I did is the only way this swap makes sense to me. Because otherwise there’s something like a $1000 core charge alone on the thing.

I’d be willing to bet infotainment’s package will be over 3 grand. Hopefully this thread shows people there are cheaper options if you’re willing to do some searching.
 
Update: Still no joy getting the tiles working, it didn’t fix itself. Gonna mess around AlfaOBD tomorrow and maybe try changing the model year in the BCM just to see what it does. Really have no other ideas.

I think either way I am pushing myself toward a UC5 swap, and eventually even the BCM swap to get 100% function. A full 2023 conversion would be cool and it only seems natural at this point.
 
So now we need a 23+ to swap to a 22 cluster and we can have digital clusters available! Haha we can all be swapping gauges on here.
 
So now we need a 23+ to swap to a 22 cluster and we can have digital clusters available! Haha we can all be swapping gauges on here.
Haha, actually seems like it would be easier (and definitely cheaper) for someone to go in that direction. I know a few guys were talking about it but maybe they came to their senses.
 
Okay, I posted a request thread on the main forum but if anyone catches this and has a 2023 and AlfaOBD, please PM me. We were operating under a false assumption because apparently nobody who has done this swap has even attempted to get the custom tiles working.

With Jimmy07’s expert help we hope to be the first and forge the way for everyone else to get this fully functional. Just need a 2023 BCM system ID and backup file.
 
When I did gauge swap on an old vehicle the mileage was held on the circuit board. Wonder if this may apply?

Great write up you definitely have me wanting to attempt this!!!!
 
Awesome write up @OnTheReel !! so no software updates are needed or anything? I have a 2022 w/ UC5. And how much is the harness?

Is the mask/trim required? i've found the cluster at several mopar parts sites online for around $800, but they dont say if the cluster is TRX specific or not. My guess would be a generic cluster w/o the trim. (the trim being like $150 bucks, thinking can skip it unless it looks really bad w/o it).
 
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When I did gauge swap on an old vehicle the mileage was held on the circuit board. Wonder if this may apply?
Unfortunately those days are gone. I’m sure it’s just a matter of time before someone figures out the mileage correction on the digital. It’s no problem to do the analog.
Awesome write up @OnTheReel !! so no software updates are needed or anything? I have a 2022 w/ UC5. And how much is the harness?

Is the mask/trim required? i've found the cluster at several mopar parts sites online for around $800, but they dont say if the cluster is TRX specific or not. My guess would be a generic cluster w/o the trim. (the trim being like $150 bucks, thinking can skip it unless it looks really bad w/o it).
The part number for the cluster I listed is the correct one with TRX matching trim already installed. Replacing the mask is just an alternate route if someone finds a used cluster from a Longhorn or something, and wants to make it match.

Unfortunately the online dealers won’t fulfill an order for a cluster. You can have a local dealer give it a shot but you’ll need to eat the core charge which is like another grand on top of the cluster cost.

No programming needed for basic operation. Still trying some things to get the custom tiles although it seems likely now that a 2023 BCM will be needed if the 2021-2022 BCMs won’t broadcast the right messages.
 
Also big thanks to @JPV96 for the 2023 backup file. Came in clutch. Jinmy uncovered quite a few differences in programming. Once I get my tablet to behave I’m going to try implanting a relevant part of the 2023 backup into my 2021 and we should know more.
 
Okay, so the custom tiles are gonna be a no-go without a 2023 BCM. I tried on my 2021 this afternoon, and Jimmy also ran his 2022 BCM on the bench…you can change the appropriate settings but they just aren’t being broadcast by the old BCM.

Since I’m already in this pretty deep (and I like a challenge) I did order a 2023 BCM. Of course that doesn’t mean I’ll actually get one anytime soon with the way things are, but I’ll keep trying. There is apparently a workaround that’ll allow me to program it without dealer involvement so if I can just secure one we should be good to go. Stay tuned.
 
If I had a 23 or 24 I would be trying to figure out how to get gauges back lol! To each their own, but you accomplished what you wanted and that's awesome, great job.

You can dumb down the digital display to show those useless dials. 🤣
 
Having had both now on the same truck I’m not really a hard-liner one way or the other. I see a lot more upside and flexibility with the digital but I liked the old school analog too.

Ram doesn’t even know I exist, let alone give a shit about what I’m doing to a truck I bought and paid for. But sometimes it’s just fun to do what they would say is impossible. This is one of those things to me.
 

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