🔥🔥 HELP!! I JUST INSTALLED A SET of 40s...🔥🔥

FULLTHROTTLERICK

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Seriously about to pull the trigger on 20x10 Weld Ledge 6s and Gladiator X-Comp 40x13.50r20. Yes i'd prefer to stay 18s but only 1 tire is available and it's F-rated and not super aggressive for our needs. Also $785/tire so F that lol. Moving on...

For the gurus, Other than mount/balance/TPMS and trim/rub issues, do you guys think we'll have problems getting alignment dialed in with the stock UCAs/etc? And Assuming our fenders have left the chat, are there any suspension-related issues you think we'll encounter or suffer from??

Also, anyone have any experience with these X-Comp Gladiator tires? They look pretty dam good for the money. They're E-rated so i'm totally unfamiliar with tire pressures but it looks like it calls for more pressure than we're used to. Anyone have a psi recommendation for off-road on these rubbers?

Any other concerns worth mentioning?! I'm sure our power steering will F'in hate us lol...

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I cannot speak to suspension or rubbing issues but I am worried the differentials will break.

Hope it goes well if you decide to move forward.
 
My two cents…. Based on how hard you wheel your truck I think you’re going to grenade the front end. Which will ensure you’ll build the front end back up and give everyone a good path to follow!
 
My two cents…. Based on how hard you wheel your truck I think you’re going to grenade the front end. Which will ensure you’ll build the front end back up and give everyone a good path to follow!
I love how dark this started but then somehow turned positive. You had me like oh shit maybe i should do this to pave the way for any other morons like us :ROFLMAO:
 
Sure hope there will be larger brakes to go with that increase in rolling mass.

And since it's the volume of air that supports the load, not the tire, you should end up running lower pressures.
 
How many front axles have you broken? I broke the driver-side axle twice on stock power, suspension, and tires. I get around 9-12 months out of them before they start clicking at full lock or rolling forward from a dead stop until the axle eventually gives way. I've been hesitant to go to 37s now that I have added horsepower.
Geeze mane i dont know. I can tell you that "broke" is very subject to interpretation haha. I think i've had about 7-8 replaced. None before jumping to the Eibach front 2.7 and 38s. I lived over a year on the Eibach 1.6" front lift and 37s without a single CV issue.
 
Sure hope there will be larger brakes to go with that increase in rolling mass.

And since it's the volume of air that supports the load, not the tire, you should end up running lower pressures.
Maybe down the road. The Powerstops are pretty decent when they're not caked in mud lol.

E-rated tires usually call for higher air pressures than our D-rated rubbers. I know when i was looking at the F-rated BFGs, standard pressures were in the 60s which would basically explode our current tires lol
 
Thanks for the input. On both axle breaks, I had the cage crack, and the boot got ripped apart. The shafts themselves have not seemed to be the problem. The only other local TRX I know or that has broken an axle is also on stock power, suspension, and tires. The common denominator between my friend's TRX and mine is that we launch and jump our trucks quite often.


@Two is correct. The goal is to get the bigger tire at the same load rating. You will have a very uncomfortable ride if you go with more PSI on a larger tire that has a thicker sidewall.

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Yea we run 32psi in our 38" Yokos right now.
 
E-rated tires usually call for higher air pressures than our D-rated rubbers. I know when i was looking at the F-rated BFGs, standard pressures were in the 60s which would basically explode our current tires lol
Nope. Forget about the max pressure for the tire, and to a large extent the load rating.

If you look at a load chart (not that they necessarily go up to 40-inch tires), there's no mention of load rating, only what psi is required for a given load.

Again, it's the volume of air that supports the load, so the larger the tire's internal volume the less pressure is needed.
 
Nope. Forget about the max pressure for the tire, and to a large extent the load rating.

If you look at a load chart (not that they necessarily go up to 40-inch tires), there's no mention of load rating, only what psi is required for a given load.

Again, it's the volume of air that supports the load, so the larger the tire's internal volume the less pressure is needed.
Interesting...🤔
 
40s are sick but wouldn't you have more options at a significantly lower cost running 39s?
 
40s are sick but wouldn't you have more options at a significantly lower cost running 39s?
Not that i'm aware of. Havent found any options for 39s on 18s and never bothered to look for 39x20s because if im upping the wheel from 18 to 20, I would actually lose sidewall with a 39x20 vs. current setup 38x18 - which i def dont want!
 
Not that i'm aware of. Havent found any options for 39s on 18s and never bothered to look for 39x20s because if im upping the wheel from 18 to 20, I would actually lose sidewall with a 39x20 vs. current setup 38x18 - which i def dont want!
Best option, that will be more cost effective long term, would be to switch to 17" brake and wheel set up.
 
Fortin makes a front diff for the Pro-4/Trophy Truck guys with a 10.5" ring gear. Ours is only 8.5", (Toyota sized). Plus then you could run RCV 300M axles. The other bonus is you could stuff lower gears in the rear diff while you're at it. You could sure use a lower gear ratio for what you do.


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Best option, that will be more cost effective long term, would be to switch to 17" brake and wheel set up.
That would be sick and 100% agree. Didnt Ripa make a kit like that? haven't seen any feedback on it but prolly wouldn't trust it enough to be the guinea lol
 
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